yamaha v star 1100 engine diagram

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Yamaha Road Star Engine Guard Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

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1. Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. 2. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, Remove the two lower engine mount bolts. These bolts are located on the inside of the right and left frame rails, and will be replaced with the longer 10mm bolts included with your new engine guard. 3. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 4. Raise the guard until the upper V” mount is located between the frame rails. Note: Your new Barons engine guard is equipped with a unique upper V” mount clamp. This clamp becomes a cradle for the upper frame supports when it is inserted between the frame rails. 5. Rotate the engine guard until the lower mounting brackets are aligned with the lower engine mount holes. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the new 10mm bolts and washers, and finger tighten only. 7. Tighten each 3/8″ bolt in the upper clamp evenly by using a 9/16″ socket or a wrench. Snug down each bolt until it draws the front of the upper clamp into contact with the upper frame supports, then adjust these bolts accordingly to achieve equal spacing between each floorboard and the lower engine guard rail. 8. Tighten the jam nuts against the washers to lock each bolt in place. CAUTION! It is critical that you do not over-tighten these bolts. Tighten all remaining nuts and bolts securely. If necessary, slightly loosen rear brake line banjo bolt and rotate banjo fitting for clearance with engine guard. Tighten banjo bolt and check brake for proper operation. You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

Yamaha V-Star 650 Engine Guard REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 03-01-2012

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Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Your new Barons engine guard will fasten to the frame at the same points as the OEM guard and will use the same hardware. 2. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, remove the 14mm bolts from the underside of the drivers footpeg mounts. 3. Remove the 12mm upper engine mount bolts located on both sides of the frame. Replacement bolts are included with your new engine guard. 4. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 5. Raise the guard until the holes in the lower mounting brackets align with the vacated bolt holes beneath the drivers footpegs. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the large washers (supplied with the guard) between the rear face of the lower bracket and the frame. The washer fills the space between the lower mounting bracket and the footpeg mount. Reinsert the 14mm bolts and finger tighten. 7. Rotate the guard until the holes in the upper mounting brackets align with the empty holes on each side of the frame. 8. Insert the replacement 13mm bolts, along with their washers, and tighten securely. Tighten all other nuts and bolts securely. 9. Remove the protection on the front fender and you’re ready to ride. CAUTION!!! You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

Honda Shadow A.C.E. v. Yamaha V-Star 1100 Middleweight Import Cruiser Shootout

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

V-Star 1100 And Dragstar 1100 Modification V-Star Driving/ Passing Lights Factory Chrome Light Bar Cover Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed

Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 Drag Star/V-Star Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-04-2011

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Fortunately, Haynes cruises to the rescue with the introduction of its new Service and Repair Manual for all Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 models – XVS650 (‘97-’05), XVS650A Classic (‘98-’05), XVS1100 (‘99–’05) and XVS1100A Classic (‘00–’05). Hailed as “… essential reading for any biker tackling his own servicing…” by Motor Cycle News, Haynes manuals have an enviable reputation. The new manual provides fully illustrated, step-by-step instructions for DIY servicing, overhaul and repairs of the engine and transmission, fuel and ignition systems, suspension and steering, the braking system and the electrical system. Each task is given a spanner rating for complexity and experience required. Checking and adjusting the valve clearances is rated as three spanners out of five. There are full-colour sections on the history of the models, on daily preride hecks and those all-important wiring diagrams, plus tools required and Haynes Hints. For instance, when changing the brake fluid how to tell when all the old fluid has been displaced The section guiding readers

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