yamaha royal star carburetor adjustment

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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2005 Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe speedo Healer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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The speed sensor is on the left side (looking from the back towards the front of the motorcycle). Just FYI, here is the speed sensor coming off of the drive shaft behind the left saddlebag. The speed sensor connection for the Speedo Healer is behind this red cover. Take off the seat. There are two screws. One pointed out by the arrow and one on the opposite side. Also, remove the screw on the red cover. After removing the screw on the red cover, remove the cover by pulling it straight away from the bike. It is held on by 2 rubber grommets. The arrow points to the speed sensor coupler. Pull the connection apart. There is a little tab holding the connector together that will need to be depressed in order to get it apart.Hook the SH harness into the appropriate connectors. It only goes one way. The Yamaha plug and go kit works perfectly with no splicing required. Here is a close-up of the connection. Run the cable up under the bar towards the battery and hook the wires up to the Speedo Healer unit. The speedo healer fits nicely right behind the battery. You can barely see it next to the intercom. Note, none of the wires in this example have been secured yet. Put the red cover back on. Figure out the error that needs to be adjusted and make the adjustments to the Speed Healer per their instructions. Put the seat back on and you’re good to go. Be sure to verify that your adjustment was correct before believing your speedometer to be accurate. With the right adjustment, it will be, but don’t wait for a cop to tell you that you miscalculated! The electronic cruise control was not affected by the installation of this unit. I ended up setting mine to -7.5% after chasing my wife’s ’03 Vue for a couple of times. I ended up reading 59mph to her 60mph (previously it read 65mph to her 60mph) which is right where I wanted it since her speedometer reads a little fast, too. My back tire is about halfway worn. Your adjustment may vary

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Yamaha Royalstar Royal Star Tour Deluxe Speedo Healer Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-01-2012

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he speed sensor is on the left side (looking from the back towards the front of the motorcycle). Just FYI, here is the speed sensor coming off of the drive shaft behind the left saddlebag. – 7/2 -The speed sensor connection for the Speedo Healer is behind this red cover. Take off the seat. There are two screws. One pointed out by the arrow and one on the opposite side. Also, remove the screw on the red cover. After removing the screw on the red cover, remove the cover by pulling it straight away from the bike. It is held on by 2 rubber grommets. – 7/3 -The arrow points to the speed sensor coupler. Pull the connection apart. There is a little tab holding the connector together that will need to be depressed in order to get it apart. – 7/4 -Hook the SH harness into the appropriate connectors. It only goes one way. The Yamaha plug and go kit works perfectly with no splicing required. Here is a close-up of the connection. – 7/5 -Run the cable up under the bar towards the battery and hook the wires up to the Speedo Healer unit. – 76 -The speedo healer fits nicely right behind the battery. You can barely see it next to the intercom. Note, none of the wires in this example have been secured yet. Put the red cover back on. Figure out the error that needs to be adjusted and make the adjustments to the Speed Healer per their instructions. Put the seat back on and you’re good to go. Be sure to verify that your adjustment was correct before believing your speedometer to be accurate. With the right adjustment, it will be, but don’t wait for a cop to tell you that you miscalculated! The electronic cruise control was not affected by the installation of this unit. I ended up setting mine to -7.5% after chasing my wife’s ’03 Vue for a couple of times. I ended up reading 59mph to her 60mph (previously it read 65mph to her 60mph) which is right where I wanted it since her speedometer reads a little fast, too. My back tire is about halfway worn. Your adjustment may vary

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KTM 60 SX / 65 SX REPAIR MANUAL ENGINE

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Carburetor adjustment Basic information about the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 . Basic information of changing the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures  choose leaner carburetor adjustment low altitude or low temperatures  choose richer carburetor adjustment * WARNING * -ONLYUSE PREMIUM – GRADE GASOLINE ROZ 95 MIXED WITH HIGH – GRADE TWO – STROKE ENGINE OIL . OTHER TYPES OF GASOLINE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE , AND USE OF SAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY . -ONLYUSE HIGH – GRADE 2- STROKE ENGINE OIL OF KNOWN BRANDS ( I . E .SHELL ADVANCE RACING X). -NOTENOUGH OIL OR LOW – GRADE OILCAN CAUSE EROSION OF THE PISTON . USING TOO MUCH OIL , THE ENGINE CAN START SMOKING AND FOUL THE SPARKPLUG . -INTHE CASE OFA LEANER ADJUSTMENT OF THE CARBURETOR PROCEED CAUTIOUSLY . ALWAYSREDUCETHEJETSIZEINSTEPSOFONENUMBERTOAVOID OVERHEATING AND PISTON SEIZURE . NOTE: If despite a changed adjustment the engine does not run properly, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system. Basic information on carburetor wear As a result of engine vibrations, throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause carburetor malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced after 1000 hours of using. Idling range – A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the idle adjusting screw 1 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. The idling speed can be changed by turning the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Opening up – B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range – C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer

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Honda CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT TOOLS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 17-12-2011

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K&L CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT WRENCHES These tools use tough and accurate bevel gear actuation instead of cable for professional use. The aluminum handle includes index marks for accurate tuning. Sold each. Three types available: 35-9653 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9658 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench with longer tip for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9650 D-type Keihin Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Honda 90-DEGREE 1/4″ HEX DRIVER This gear driven, 1/4″ hex driver set is made of high-grade aluminum and stainless steel. Strongest tool of it’s type on the market. Designed for use on hard-to-reach pilot air screws on inline fours. Can be used with any 1/4″ or 6mm hex bits. 35-7820 90-Degree 1/4″ Hex Driver Set: Includes straight slot, phillips, d-shape pilot screw bit, 6mm hex jet bit & 1/4″ – hex – 1/4″ drive bit. FCR CARB TOOL Set includes three bits – 6mm hex for main jets, long reach straight slot for pilot jets and 3mm allen for float bowl removal. Longer bits make this set ideal for reaching into recessed cavities when adjusting Keihin FCR carburetors. Sold as a set. 35-7978 FCR Carb Tool 12″ DRILL BIT For removal of carburetor plug. (mixture screw plug) 1/8″ bit x 12 inch length. 35-1186 YM-33217-16 JET DRIVER 35-2270 Perfect for removal of jets from small recessed passages

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V-Star 1100 And Dragstar 1100 Modification V-Star Driving/ Passing Lights Factory Chrome Light Bar Cover Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed

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Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 Drag Star/V-Star Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-04-2011

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Fortunately, Haynes cruises to the rescue with the introduction of its new Service and Repair Manual for all Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 models – XVS650 (‘97-’05), XVS650A Classic (‘98-’05), XVS1100 (‘99–’05) and XVS1100A Classic (‘00–’05). Hailed as “… essential reading for any biker tackling his own servicing…” by Motor Cycle News, Haynes manuals have an enviable reputation. The new manual provides fully illustrated, step-by-step instructions for DIY servicing, overhaul and repairs of the engine and transmission, fuel and ignition systems, suspension and steering, the braking system and the electrical system. Each task is given a spanner rating for complexity and experience required. Checking and adjusting the valve clearances is rated as three spanners out of five. There are full-colour sections on the history of the models, on daily preride hecks and those all-important wiring diagrams, plus tools required and Haynes Hints. For instance, when changing the brake fluid how to tell when all the old fluid has been displaced The section guiding readers

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Honda Shadow A.C.E. v. Yamaha V-Star 1100 Middleweight Import Cruiser Shootout

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Needle/ Jet Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-12-2011

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To install this needle and jet kit: • Remove carburetors from the engine per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Note: Always perform internal carburetor work in a clean area. • Remove the vacuum slide from each carburetor. • Remove the OEM needle, spacer and washers, noting order of assembly. (Note; the washers are used as shims to raise the needle, each is equivalent to ½ clip position, use these to fine tune the needle) • Counting from the top to the bottom, install the new Baron needle clip on groove #4 of the replacement Baron adjustable needles. The top is the blunt end of the needle. • Reinstall the OEM spacer and washers as shown in the figure below. • Reinstall the vacuum slides along with the diaphragm spring and reattach the diaphragm covers Note: Verify that the slides maintain their full range of movement! • Drain the fuel from the float bowls and remove the bowl covers. • Remove the OEM main jets and replace them with Baron’s supplied Mikuni main jets. Install the “base setting” main jets as indicated above. NOTE: V-Star 1100 carburetion runs staggered jetting! Make sure the front cylinder’s carburetor gets the larger main jet (numerically), and the rear cylinder’s carburetor gets the smaller main jet . Important! Extra jets have been included in your kit. These will help you fine-tune the carburetors for changing conditions. These conditions include climate and weather patterns in your area as well as exhaust equipment on your motorcycle. Barons determines the jet and clip recommendations that best suit your average riding conditions based upon information supplied to us at the time of your order. Changes in weather, altitude or modifications to your exhaust system may require jets other than those supplied. • Thoroughly clean the inside of the float bowls prior to reinstalling them. 311 #1 Industrial Way – Fallbrook, CA 92028 – USA Phone: (760) 731-1200 Fax: (760) 731-1284 E-mail: tech@baronscustom.com Website: www.baronscustom.com Included in this kit: (4)Mikuni main jets #107.5, 110, 112.5, 115, (2) titanium needles, (2) clips, (8) cap-head allen screws Tools required: 3-4-5 mm allen wrenches, 10&12 mm sockets, 10mm end wrench, phillips & flat screwdrivers, pliers, drill. Revision 4.0 • Reassemble the carburetors by reversing the order of above steps. Use the new supplied cap head Allen screws in place of the OEM Phillips head screws for the float bowls. • Locate the fuel mixture screws – they will either be a screw head or a brass plug. If it is a screw head, skip to step c . If you see a brass plug with a small hole in the center, proceed as follows: a. With a 5/32″ drill bit, carefully and slowly drill through the fuel mixture plugs

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Yamaha Road Star NEEDLE/ JET KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Remove the vacuum slide from the carburetor. 2. Remove the OEM needle, spacer and washers, noting order of assembly. 3. Counting from the top to the bottom, install the new Baron needle clip on groove #4 for 04-07 models and on groove #5 for 99-03 models of the replacement. NOTE: Baron adjustable needle – The top is the blunt end of the needle. 4. Reinstall the OEM spacer and washers as shown in this diagram. 5. Reinstall the vacuum slide along with the diaphragm spring. 6. Reattach the diaphragm cover back and tighten screws. NOTE: Verify that the slide maintains its full range of movement. 7. Drain the fuel from the float bowl and remove the bowl cover. 8. Remove the OEM main jet and replace it with a Barons genuine Mikuni main jet. Install the correct main jet as indicated in JET SELECTION area above on this page. Our install guides provide a basic outline on the proper installation of our products. Further tuning and/or fitment may be required. Page: 2 BA-2420RD NEEDLE/JET KIT – Yamaha Road Star (99-07) 9. Thoroughly clean the inside of the float bowl prior to reinstalling it. 10. Reassemble the carburetor by reversing the order of step #1 through step #10. Use the new cap head allen screws in place of the OEM phillips head screws. 11. Locate the fuel mixture screw – it will either be a screw head or a brass plug. If it is a screw head, skip to step #11c. 11c. If you see a brass plug with a small hole in the center, proceed as follows: With the drill bit, carefully and slowly drill through the fuel mixture plug. CAUTION: The fuel mixture screw is located directly beneath this plug. Be prepared to stop the drill and remove the bit the instant you break through the plug. Insert the self-tapping sheet metal screw into the drilled hole and remove the plug. With air/fuel screw now accessible, use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the screw clockwise until it seats, then carefully turn it counter-clockwise 3 1/2 turns. Refer to step #16 for assistance in fine tuning the setting of the air/fuel adjustment screw. 12. Reinstall the carburetor. We strongly suggest that you attach the throttle cables prior to mounting to intake manifold. 13. Reconnect the fuel line, ensuring the clamp is firmly in place. 14. Reinstall all vent hoses and electrical connectors that were previously removed, checking for any obstructions or blockage. 15. Reinstall the OEM air filter assembly or, if you are installing our Big Air Kit (BAK), follow the instructions that accompany that kit, then continue with next step. NOTES: When the BAK is installed, the vent hose that terminated on the rear of the OEM airbox can be relocated in any safe position that does not kink or pinch it. It is important to verify proper throttle operation before starting the engine.

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