Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010
The K 1300 S with 175 hp, the K 1300 R with 173 hp and the K 1300 GT with 160 hp. The new K bikes feature updated transmission and clutch assembly, plus smoother engine performance and new switchgear. Von Kuenheim continues: “By raising capacity to 1300 cc, our engineers have not only increased output but also torque on all three models. At the same time the driveline was intensively revised from air/fuel mixture formation right through to the exhaust system. In this way we have been able to optimize partial load behavior as well as throttle response. Now the clutch can be operated with even less effort and with greater refinement. Shifting has been improved tangibly due to constructional changes to the gearbox and drive.” BMW is introducing new options for the 2009 as well. The popular Electronic Suspension Adjustment that first appeared on the 2005 K 1200 S has now been updated with even more on-the-fly adjustability and it’s called ESA II. Also new is the quick-shifter option, racing-style gear shift assistant, borrowed from BMW’s race-ready HP2 Sport. Automatic Stability Control (ASC) is also offered as an option on the new K bikes. “Both the K 1300 S and also the R will also have the shift assistant – familiar from the HP2 Sport – available as an option for the first time,” von Kuenheim emphasized. “We have also advanced the chassis. The new lower longitudinal strut is now made of aluminum and is thus considerably lighter. This makes the front wheel guidance response even more sensitive. The result of this comprehensive development work is superior handling, improved rideability and lower fuel consumption. The electronically adjustable suspension – called ESA in short – was launched as a world first on the K 1200 S. Now we are presenting the new, well-proven ESA II as an option for the K Series. Apart from the suspension and damping this unique system also allows the spring rate to be adjusted at the press of a button. The K Series model revision also heralds a new and innovative generation of switches and controls.
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012
When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2011
REMOVAL Prepare for Service Touring Models: Remove left side saddlebag, left side cover, and maxi-fuse. Refer to SADDLEBAG and MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. Softail and Dyna Models: To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Remove seat according to the instructions in the Service Manual. 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 3. Remove fuel tank according to the instructions in the Service Manual. Sportster Models: Remove left side cover and maxi-fuse. Refer to MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. V-Rod Models: Remove right side cover and maxi-fuse. Refer to MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. Remove Existing Mirrors Touring and Softail (Except FXSTD, FLSTF) Models Left side: See Figure 1. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. Right side: See Figure 2. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. 2 1 3 is03431 1. Acorn nut 2. Star washer 3. Mirror, left Figure 1. Remove L.H. Mirror (Except Sportster) 2 1 3 is03432 1. Acorn nut 2. Star washer 3. Mirror, right Figure 2. Remove R.H. Mirror (Touring, Softail – Except FXSTD, FLSTF) Dyna, FXSTD, FLSTF, and VRSC Models 1. Left side: See Figure 1. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. 2. Right side: See Figure 3. Loosen ball stud clamp (1) to remove directional lamp assembly (2). Remove retainer (3), star washer (4), and existing mirror (5) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save remaining parts. 2 5 3 1 4 is03428 1. Ball stud clamp 2. Directional lamp assembly 3. Retainer 4. Star washer 5. Mirror, right Figure 3. Remove R.H. Mirror (Dyna, FXSTD, FLSTF, VRSC) Sportster Models Left side: See Figure 4. Remove locknut (1), washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard washer and mirror but save locknut. Right side: See Figure 4. Remove locknut (1), washer (2), and existing mirror (4) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard washer and mirror but save locknut. 3 2 1 2 1 4 is03414 1. Locknut (2) 2. Washer (2) 3. Mirror, left 4. Mirror, right Figure 4. Remove Mirrors (Sportster) INSTALLATION Install Lighted Mirrors Touring and Softail (Except FXSTD, FLSTF, FXSTS, FLSTS) Models 1. Left side: See Figure 5. Install mirror stem (1) through clutch hand control assembly.
Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010
1. Remove the following fairing components per the instructions in the Ducati owners manual: • Instrument surrounds • Headlight fairing • Chin fairing (under headlight/air intake) • Right-side middle fairing (covers battery) 2. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer. Unthread the ring nut at the top of the speedometer cable and retract the cable downward about 4-6 inches. 3. Disconnect the headlight wiring from the headlight bulbs. Retract the rubber boots at the rear of the headlight assembly to gain access to the wire terminals. Note that the two ¼ inch terminals at the high- beam bulb have locking clips that should be depressed before pulling the terminal away from the bulb. 4. Unplug the parking light from the headlight body by grasping the wires and carefully pulling it out. 5. Remove the two rubber plugs covering the lower headlight mounting screw access holes beneath the air intake horn. 6. Using an 8mm hex socket inserted through the lower access holes remove the two hex-head bolts securing the bottom of the headlight to the frame. 7. Using the same socket wrench, remove the two 8mm hex-head bolts securing the top of the headlight assembly to the frame. 8. Remove the headlight assembly from the frame. 9. Remove the two rubber grommets and steel reducing sleeves from the frame at the top mounting locations for the headlight. Leave the lower pair in place; these will be re-used, as shown in Figure 6
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010
Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed