Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010
Carburetor adjustment Basic information about the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 . Basic information of changing the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures choose leaner carburetor adjustment low altitude or low temperatures choose richer carburetor adjustment * WARNING * -ONLYUSE PREMIUM – GRADE GASOLINE ROZ 95 MIXED WITH HIGH – GRADE TWO – STROKE ENGINE OIL . OTHER TYPES OF GASOLINE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE , AND USE OF SAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY . -ONLYUSE HIGH – GRADE 2- STROKE ENGINE OIL OF KNOWN BRANDS ( I . E .SHELL ADVANCE RACING X). -NOTENOUGH OIL OR LOW – GRADE OILCAN CAUSE EROSION OF THE PISTON . USING TOO MUCH OIL , THE ENGINE CAN START SMOKING AND FOUL THE SPARKPLUG . -INTHE CASE OFA LEANER ADJUSTMENT OF THE CARBURETOR PROCEED CAUTIOUSLY . ALWAYSREDUCETHEJETSIZEINSTEPSOFONENUMBERTOAVOID OVERHEATING AND PISTON SEIZURE . NOTE: If despite a changed adjustment the engine does not run properly, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system. Basic information on carburetor wear As a result of engine vibrations, throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause carburetor malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced after 1000 hours of using. Idling range – A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the idle adjusting screw 1 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. The idling speed can be changed by turning the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Opening up – B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range – C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2010
motorcycle can be kickstarted with the transmission in gear by disengaging the clutch before operating the kickstarter. Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (page 21, 23, 24). Cold Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. If the temperature is 35°C (95°F) or below, pull the choke knob fully out. 4. If the temperature is below 0°C (32°F), open the throttle two or three times. (The engine requires a richer mixture for starting in cold weather. When the throttle is so opened, the accelerator pump will feed extra fuel to the cylinder, thereby facilitating starting in cold weather.) 5. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion. (Do not open the throttle, As the carburetor is equipped with an accelerator pump, excessive fuel will be charged into the engine, and the spark plug will be fouled if the throttle is opened and closed repeatedly. Excessive fuel in the engine makes kick- starting difficult.) 6. About a minute after the engine starts, push the choke knob back all the way to fully OFF. If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly. (1) FUEL FILL CAP (2) BREATHER TUBE WARNING (1) FUEL VALVE (2) CHOKE KNOB Warm Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Starting the engine excessively charged with fuel by throttle blipping or other reasons: 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat kickstarter operation approximately 10 times very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from the engine. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Stopping The Engine 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Turn the fuel valve OFF. 3. Lightly open the throttle 2 – 3 times, and then close it. 4. Depress and hold the engine stop button until the engine stops completely. NOTE: • Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the carburetor to overflow. (1) THROTTLE GRIP (2) ENGINE STOP BUTTON Break-In Procedure Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km). During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. This same procedure should be followed each time when: • Piston is replaced • Rings are replaced • Cylinder is replaced • Crankshaft or crank bearing are replaced
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010
Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010
1. Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. 2. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, Remove the two lower engine mount bolts. These bolts are located on the inside of the right and left frame rails, and will be replaced with the longer 10mm bolts included with your new engine guard. 3. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 4. Raise the guard until the upper V” mount is located between the frame rails. Note: Your new Barons engine guard is equipped with a unique upper V” mount clamp. This clamp becomes a cradle for the upper frame supports when it is inserted between the frame rails. 5. Rotate the engine guard until the lower mounting brackets are aligned with the lower engine mount holes. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the new 10mm bolts and washers, and finger tighten only. 7. Tighten each 3/8″ bolt in the upper clamp evenly by using a 9/16″ socket or a wrench. Snug down each bolt until it draws the front of the upper clamp into contact with the upper frame supports, then adjust these bolts accordingly to achieve equal spacing between each floorboard and the lower engine guard rail. 8. Tighten the jam nuts against the washers to lock each bolt in place. CAUTION! It is critical that you do not over-tighten these bolts. Tighten all remaining nuts and bolts securely. If necessary, slightly loosen rear brake line banjo bolt and rotate banjo fitting for clearance with engine guard. Tighten banjo bolt and check brake for proper operation. You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-11-2010
During Break-In At 50 Miles (80 Kilometers): 1- Change engine oil and filter. 2- Inspect for fuel and oil leaks. 3- Inspect air cleaner element and service as required. 4- Check tightness of exterior fasteners, except head bolts. Engine Maintenance at 500 Miles (800 Kilometers): 1- Change engine oil and filter. 2- Inspect for fuel and oil leaks. 3- Inspect air cleaner element and service as required. 4- Check tightness of exterior fasteners, except head bolts. 5- Check operation of enrichment device and throttle controls. 6- Check engine idle speed. 7- Check tightness of engine mounts. Regular Service Intervals Regular lubrication and maintenance will help keep your new S&S engine operating at peak performance. The following table presents the required service schedule for normal operating conditions. Failure to complete the required engine maintenance can result in engine damage and an increase in emissions. Please refer to the motorcycle owner’s manual for any additional required chassis maintenance. Engine Service Intervals Item Interval Engine Oil & Filter Change at 50, 500, 2,500 miles (80, 800, 4,000 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter1 Air Cleaner Element Inspect at 50 and 500 miles (80 and 800 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter2 Tappet Oil Screen Inspect every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers). Replace every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Petcock, Lines, & Fittings, Vacuum Lines Inspect at 50 and 500 miles (80 and 800 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter. Fuel Tank Filter Screen & In-Line Fuel Filter (If used) Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Engine Idle Speed Adjust as required. Operation of Throttle & Enrichment Device ControlsInspect at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter. Spark Plugs Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Replace every 10,000 miles (16,000 kilometers) or as needed. Ignition Timing Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Engine Mounts Inspect at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) thereafter. External Fasteners Except Engine Head Bolts Re-torque at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) thereafter. 1- S&S recommends that petroleum-based oil not specifically formulated for motorcycles should be changed every 1,000 miles (1,600 kilometers) after the break-in period. 2- Replace more frequently if required or if engine is operated in a dusty environment.