mixture screw setting gsxr 1100

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ACE -325X/ 395 X-XX CLOCK, UNIT, WHEEL, ODOMETER, TEMPERATURE & FUEL METER SETTING

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-12-2011

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Setup operations include 12/24hour clock, bar tachometer scale, shift warning RPM, numbers of engine rotation per signal, wheel circumference, units, odometer adjustment, units of temperature, temperature warning and fuel meter input resistance selection. These must be set up step by step. The computer will automatic reversion to main screen if no button operation for 75 seconds at any setting screen. 2. Press both MODE & RESET buttons to go into setting screen. In setting screens, press RESET button to add the flashing digit by 1 or convert units, press MODE button to confirm the digit setting and jump to next digit or next setting screen to be set. Press MODE button for 2 seconds at any setting screen to finish the setting and go to main screen. 3. It displays “12 or 24H and XX:XX-XX” symbols and AM/PM in case you select 12H. Operates buttons as descriptions of item 2 to finish clock and jump to 8,000/16,000rpm scale setting. 4. It displays 8,000rpm scale, presess RESET button to convert 8,000 or 16,000rpm. Press MODE button to confirm the setting and jump to shift RPM warning setting. 5. It displays ” RPM rXXX00 “. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the shift RPM warning setting and jump to engine specification setting. 6. It displays “SPC-X.X RPM”, the default value is 1.0; there are 4 options: 1.0, 2.0, 3.0 and 0.5. It means the numbers of engine rotation per signal. For example the value 2.0 means the engine rotate 2 turns to output a signal. 7. Press RESET button to move in loop sequence from one to another value of the 4 values. Press MODE button to confirm the setting and go to wheel circumference setting screen. 8. In “cXXXX” display, “c” means “Circumference”, following 4 default digits; flashing digit is digit to be set. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the wheel circumference setting and jump to unit setting. 9. It displays KM/h or MPH, each press of RESET button converts unit; press MODE button to confirm unit setting and jump to odometer setting. 10. It displays “ODO & 00000Xkm”, the “X” is tested odometer in factory, follow item 2 to setting a desired odometer and jump to thermometer unit setting. The setting screen will disappear when the odometer is over 30km or your setting is over 30km and returned to main screen. 11. It displaysm ” , or oFF”, each press of RESET button converts , or oFF; press MODE button to confirm temperature setting and jump to temperature warning setting. 12. It displays ” XXX” and the selected unit. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the temperature warning setting and go to fuel sensor input resistance setting. 13. It displays “100r and fuel tank symbol”, follow the item 2 to select 100, 250, 510 Ohm or oFF and return to the main screen. The fuel meter bar will disappear if you select oFF mode.

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SUZUKI MOTORCYCLES Gsxr 600, Gsxr 750, Gsxr 1000 teak the lead

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 12-11-2010

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The launch of the sixth generation of Gsxr marked a shift in Suzuki’s emphasis on two fronts. One, the Gsxr 1000 now took the upper hand in the development stakes. Historically, the Gsxr 750 led the march-arriving first, gaining the most recent technology, absorbing the lion’s share of corporate pride-but by 2003 the Gsxr 1000 was in the lead. Two, the Gsxr 1000 represents another, more subtle shift for Suzuki engineering, in which the designers-the lucky guys who get to clothe these amazing machines-have more freedom of expression. With this generation, the designs turned edgier, sharper, more aggressive looking than ever. What’s more, the Gsxr 1000 K3 would be the proving ground for a host of changes brought to the Gsxr 600 and Gsxr 750 for 2004. In fact, nearly every upgrade to the smaller bikes appeared on the Gsxr 1000 a year before. But the real impetus for driving the Gsxr 1000 to the head of development and, indeed, shortening its development cycle was competition both on the track and in the showroom. For the track, it was understood that Superbike racing would revert to allowing 1000 cc four-cylinder bikes in place of the 750s that had been the limit since 1982. In 2002, Yoshimura and Mat Mladin barely lost the AMA Superbike crown to Nicky Hayden aboard the Honda RC5!. But it would be the RC’s swan song of competitiveness with the change to 1000 cc fours. To keep speeds in check, the AMA Superbike rules would require 1000 cc fours to have some additional limitations compared to the twins and triples. For example, “Cylinder heads may be ported and machined, but altering of valve angles will not be permitted; aftermarket valves, springs, retainers, and other valve-train components will be permitted; valves must be stock size and same basic material as original equipment; aftermarket camshafts will be permitted, but earn lift and resulting valve lift must be no greater than stock. “In addition, the “stock crankshaft must be retained, The only allowable modifications are balancing, polishing of bearing surfaces and attachment of accessory drives. Homologated transmission gear sets (one optional set of ratios per approved model) will be permitted. Optional sets will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor. Homologated fuel-injection throttle-body assemblies (one optional type per approved model) and aftermarket airboxes will be permitted. Modifications to throttle bodies will not be permitted. Optional throttle bodies will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor.” The thinking was simple: keep the liter bikes from sucking through massive throttle bodies, and the horsepower might not (and, it was hoped, would not) go through the roof. In preparation for racing, Suzuki moto wanted to make a host of small changes to the Gsxr 1000, but its motivation was also to keep the bike at the forefront of open-class street bikes. Suzuki engineers knew that Honda and Kawasaki were readying all-new models-the CBR 954 RR and the ZX 9 R had long since been vanquished-and rumor had it that Yamaha was ready with yet another push with the R1.It was the right time to make alterations to the Gsxr 1000. Heading the list was, as one might expect, a revised engine.

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How To Adjust the Accelerator Pump On the 40mm Mikuni Carburetor

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-01-2012

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1) The “blue” colored screw in the image is the duration adjustment screw. Underneath the head of the screw is a lock nut and the bracket arm that the screw is threaded into. To decrease the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “clockwise” or in. To increase the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “counter clockwise” or out. To get the max, amount of decrease remove the screw and take the lock nut off of the screw. Then replace the screw into the cam arm, then replace the lock nut underneath the arm on the screw. this gives you another 3/32″ of an inch in which the screw can be screwed in.
2) Turn the adjustment screw fully clockwise or IN. Start your engine, Blip your throttle open, if the engine stutters, (hesitates), it is not getting enough fuel so turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the amount of fuel squirted from the accelerator pump into the carburetor. Keep blipping the throttle and adjusting the screw till the carburetor starts to cough. Stop here and turn the screw back in till the coughing stops. Tighten down the lock nut. This should give you the best throttle response with the least amount of coughing and backfiring out the carburetor. Timing Adjustment Screw This is the “Green” colored screw just above the Blue duration adjustment screw. The” Mucker” said it best,,,,, This upper screw adjusts the “timing” of the squirt. By altering it’s setting, you can advance or delay the onset of the fuel squirt. But probably, it won’t have to be touched

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KTM 250/ 300/ 380 SX,MXC,EXC ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Repair manual KTM 250 / 300 / 380 Art No 3206004 -E 2-2C main jet jet needle jet needle air control screw idle adjusting screw idle jet throttle valve Idling range A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the position of the air control screw 1 and the idle adjusting screw 2 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. To this end, slightly increase the idling speed of the engine by means of the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Create a round and stable engine speed using the air control screw (basic position of the air control screw = open by 1.5 turns). Then adjust to the normal idling speed by means of the idle adjusting screw. Opening up B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer. Full throttle range D Operation with the throttle fully open (flat out). This range is influenced by the main jet and the jet needle. If the porcelain of the new spark plug is found to have a very bright or white coating or if the engine rings, after a short distance of riding flat out, a larger main jet is required. If the porcelain is dark brown or black with soot the main jet must be replaced by a smaller one. mixture too rich: too much fuel in proportion to air mixture too lean: not enough fuel in proportion to air 1 2 OPERATING RANGES OF THE CARBURETOR 2-3C Carburetor adjustment Basic information on the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95 MOZ). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 – 1:60. Basic information on a change of the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB:

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SUZUKI Hayabusa, GSXR 1000, GSXR 750, GSXR 600 Sport Brake Lever INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 21-02-2012

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Before you install your new ASV brake lever, you MUST choose the correct brake light switch tab to install. You will find in the package with this lever one plastic bag with four smaller bags inside of it. One bag has two small phillips screws. The other three bags have small black aluminum blocks (light switch tabs) with labels on them. Part# BRC511-H is ONLY for HONDA motorcycles. Part# BRC511-STK is for all SUZUKI, TRIUMPH and 05-06 KAWASAKI ZX636R motorcycles ONLY. Part# BRC511-K is for all KAWASAKI motorcycles EXCEPT the 05-06 ZX636R . Choose the correct tab for your bike and install it onto the lever as shown in photo 2b using the two small Phillips head screws provided. It is recommended that you use locktite or another type of thread locking adhesive to make sure these screws do not come loose. Be sure to tighten these screws as tight as you can without stripping them. The brake stop / light tab is required for your ASV brake lever to work properly Carefully place the lever into the master cylinder while inserting the plunger rod into the barrel hole as shown in photo 4. Install the main pivot bolt, and tighten it until it is snug against the master cylinder. Do not over-tighten, as it could cause the lever to bind in the master cylinder

BMW Motorcycle R1100 RT R1100 RS R850/ 1100 GS R850/ 1100R Repair Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 18-11-2010

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Engine Connection Nm Nm Oil filter Oil filter 11 11 Oil drain plug 32 32 Oil pump Mesh filter basket to engine block 9 9 Oil pump cover 9 9 Pressure relief valve 35 35 Oil pressure switch 30 30 Oil cooler Oil cooler pipe to engine block 10 10 Cooling oil line – banjo screw 25 25 Cooling oil line – banjo screw with oil vent valve 25 25 Oil lines to oil cooler 25 – Oil cooler to holder 9 9 Oil cooler return line to engine block 35 35 Oil cooler feed line to frame 20 20 Oil cooler feed line to engine block 25 25 Screw-in union for oil cooler connection at engine block 35 35 Clean threads and apply Loctite 603 to inner and outer threads and in the contact face area Oil cooler hose at oil thermostat – 40 Cylinders Tightening sequence M 8 screw 20 20 M 6 screw 9 9 Chain guide rail pivot screw 18 18 Timing chain Chain tensioner 32 32 Connecting rod Big end cap Joint torque 20 20 Additional wrench angle 80° Crankcase Tightening sequence: M 10 screw (oiled) 45 45 M 8 screw (oiled) 20 20 M 6 screw Engine electrical system Connection Nm Nm Starter motor to engine 20 20 Starter cover to gearbox housing 7 – Positive lead to starter motor 10 10 Alternator to alternator support cover 20 20 Tensioning and retaining strap at alternator 20 20 Spacer at alternator 20 20 Positive lead to alternator 15 15 Belt pulley at alternator 50 50 Belt pulley to crankshaft 50 50 Poly-V belt preload 8 8 Spark plug 20 20 13 Fuel preparation and control Temperature sensor on engine block 25 25 16 Fuel tank and lines Fuel tank to rear frame 22 22 Fuel pump assembly to tank 6 6 18 Exhaust system Muffler to footrest 35 35 Manifold to cylinder head (with strap) 22 22 (with jacket pipe) 18 18 Muffler to support plate for center stand 20 20 Clip on muffler 50 50 Grease clamping face with Never Seez Oxygen sensor (lambda probe) to muffler 55 55 Grease with Never Seez

Yamaha V-Star 1100 InstaTrike REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 05-01-2012

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Receiver Hitch Installation y Install all bolts loosely until all brackets are in place y Remove any aftermarket accessories (saddle bags, back rests, etc) before hitch installation. After installation remount accessories. NOTE: Some aftermarket accessories may not be compatible with InstaTrike. 1) Place motorcycle on a firm level surface. 2) Remove saddle bags (if applicable) 4) Attach bracket G to underside of motorcycle frame with U-bolts provided. 5) Attach bracket C (left) and bracket D (right) to the two rear fender side attachment bolts between fender and chrome side rail. Use new bolts provided. ( reattach saddle bags now if applicable) 6) Attach bracket E (left) and bracket F (right) to the outside of the rear holes on brackets C and D . Bolt inserts from inside of brackets C and D . 7) Attach bottom of brackets E and F to rear plate on receiver hitch. 8) Attach rear of brackets A and B to TOP of forward arms on receiver hitch. 9) Attach front of brackets A and B to TOP of bracket G 10) Ensure hitch is square on motorcycle and tighten all bolts.
Installation Diagrams
Leveling stand screw jack installation 1) Thread right side screw jack into threaded area on bracket B sand adjust leveling jack bolt out. 2) Push motorcycle over from left side until right screw jack is touching floor. 3) Install left side screw jack on bracket A and adjust out until motorcycle will rest upright on both screw jacks. 4) Adjust screw jacks until motorcycle is level. CAUTION – Use screw jacks to hold motorcycle upright and level ONLY. Do not lift motorcycle with screw jacks. CAUTION – Use care when installing screw jacks. Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FLSTN SADDLEBAG GUARD KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-03-2011

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REMOVAL All Models 1. If equipped with saddlebags, removal may ease installation. Follow the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual or Instruction Sheet. 2. See Figure 1. Remove and discard the forwardmost fender support bolt (1). Repeat for the other side. 3. See Figure 2. On the left side, remove the footrest support mounting bolt (1) and footrest support bracket assembly (2). Discard the mounting bolt. 2005 – 2006 Models 1. Loosen the exhaust shields as necessary following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. Move as necessary for access. 2. Loosen the exhaust header nuts following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 3. See Figure 3. Remove bolt (1) connecting the exhaust system (2) to the support bracket (3). 4. See Figure 4. Remove the two rear muffler bracket bolts (1). 5. See Figure 5. Move mufflers enough to access the rear bolt attaching the exhaust mounting bracket to the frame. Remove bolt (1) and discard. 2007 – Later Models NOTE On 2007 – later models, the frame tab (4) has a plug instead of a bolt (see Figure 6, item 1). 1. Remove plug and discard. 1 is05313 1. Fender support bolt (discard) Figure 1. Remove Docking Hardware 1 2 is05320 1. Footrest support mounting bolt 2. Footrest support bracket assembly Figure 2. Footrest Support Bracket Assembl NSTALLATION Right Side See Figure 5 or Figure 6. 1. See Figure 7. Install upper screw (7) in the fender support. Tighten screw finger-tight. 2. Install the lower screw (4 or 5) with the saddlebag guard, washer (9) and locknut (6) inside the frame. Tighten screw finger-tight. 3. Tighten the upper screw to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) . 4. Tighten the lower screw to 40 ft-lbs (54 Nm) . Tighten nut to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) . 5. 2005 – 2006 Models: a. Loosely install the exhaust header bolts. b. See Figure 4. Loosely install two rear muffler bracket bolts (1). c. See Figure 3. Loosely install bolt securing exhaust system (2) to support bracket (3). d. Tighten exhaust header bolts following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. e. Tighten support bracket bolt and rear muffler bracket bolts following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. f. Tighten exhaust shields following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 6. Install saddlebag (if removed) following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual or Instruction Sheet. 1 2 3 4 is05333 1. Lower saddlebag guard screw 2. Upper saddlebag guard screw 3. Saddlebag guard 4. Exhaust support bracket Figure 5. Install Saddlebag Guard – Right Side Shown (2005 Models) -J04645 2 of 4
2 1 3 4 is05332 1. Lower saddlebag guard screw 2. Upper saddlebag guard screw 3. Saddlebag guard 4. Frame tab Figure 6. Install Saddlebag Guard – Right Side Shown (2007-Later Models) Left Side 1. Loosely install upper screw (7) through the saddlebag guard and the fender support. NOTE Spacer (8) must be installed with the chamfer facing out. 2. See Figure 7. For 2005-2006 Models: Install lower screw (3) through the saddlebag guard, saddlebag guard spacer (8), footpeg support and the frame. Tighten to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) . For 2007 and later Models: Install lower screw (10) through the saddlebag guard, footpeg support and the frame. Tighten to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) . 3. Tighten upper screw to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm)

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BMW R1200RT Sport/ Touring 1100X Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-12-2010

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Step 1 — Locate ‘mold circle’ indentation on each side fairing panel (Pic 1). With panel mounted on bike, this indentation is center, at rear inside panel edge, and faces inside. Temporarily install bracket as shown in (Pic 2), align bottom bracket hole over indentation and mark for hole. Remove brackets at this time. Step 2 — Remove fairing body side panels. Four screws per side required for removal, see owners manual. Drill a 3/8″ hole at mark. If harness kit has not been installed, do not re-install left side panel until finished unless you remove tank to install harness. Removal of the tank is the best option to route harness from battery area to front of the bike. Step 3 — As required, re-install fairing body side panels. Do not re-install the top factory inner panel Torx Screw yet, as you will re-use this screw to secure the top light bracket mounting hole to the fairing panel. Step 4 — Using 10/32×1/2 screws and black shoulder washers from Hardware package, secure lights to PIAA Ezy-Mount® brackets (See Pics 3 & 4). Right side bracket is stamped ‘EZY-MOUNT’. See note below for Powersports lights. Due to close proximity of the light body to fairing side panel, access to the vertical adjustment screw on the panel side of the light will not be possible after installation. To prepare for this; before installing bracket/light assembly to panel, make sure this screw is tightened so that you can barely move the light body. After bracket is installed, final vertical adjustment can be secured with the inside screw. Torque on this screw is adequate to hold vertical adjustment, and the screw that faces the panel will not come loose. NOTE: WHEN INSTALLING POWERSPORTS LIGHTS, YOU MUST INSERT THE SHOULDER ADAPTER WASHER INTO THE LIGHT FOOT, BEFORE INSERTING SCREW TO SECURE LIGHT FOOT TO BRACKET. THIS ADAPTER CENTERS LIGHT FOOT OVER PEMNUT (TIGHTEN THIS SCREW SECURELY). Step 5 — Insert well nut into previously drilled 3/8″ hole. Place bracket assembly against fairing, aligning top hole with the top fairing mounting position; re-install the factory Torx screw at this location. Adjust as necessary and install the second supplied SS 10/32 x 5/8 Torx screw thru the lower bracket mounting hole to the well nut. With constant pressure on the screw, tighten securely. Constant pressure ensures that the rear expandable section of the well nut captures the back of the plastic inner panel as you tighten the screw. Future removal of fairing panels is now possible with light assembly installed (utilizing the bottom bracket mounting screw), thus re-alignment of lights is not required after normal maintenance.

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