mikuni 38mm air screw adjustment

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How To Adjust the Accelerator Pump On the 40mm Mikuni Carburetor

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-01-2012

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1) The “blue” colored screw in the image is the duration adjustment screw. Underneath the head of the screw is a lock nut and the bracket arm that the screw is threaded into. To decrease the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “clockwise” or in. To increase the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “counter clockwise” or out. To get the max, amount of decrease remove the screw and take the lock nut off of the screw. Then replace the screw into the cam arm, then replace the lock nut underneath the arm on the screw. this gives you another 3/32″ of an inch in which the screw can be screwed in.
2) Turn the adjustment screw fully clockwise or IN. Start your engine, Blip your throttle open, if the engine stutters, (hesitates), it is not getting enough fuel so turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the amount of fuel squirted from the accelerator pump into the carburetor. Keep blipping the throttle and adjusting the screw till the carburetor starts to cough. Stop here and turn the screw back in till the coughing stops. Tighten down the lock nut. This should give you the best throttle response with the least amount of coughing and backfiring out the carburetor. Timing Adjustment Screw This is the “Green” colored screw just above the Blue duration adjustment screw. The” Mucker” said it best,,,,, This upper screw adjusts the “timing” of the squirt. By altering it’s setting, you can advance or delay the onset of the fuel squirt. But probably, it won’t have to be touched

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Victory Freedom Engines Installation Instructions for S&S Air Cleaner Kit

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1-Locate and remove the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Locate the new position for the IATS on the bottom of the S&S air cleaner. Push the IATS in the lower air cleaner cover and turn1⁄ 4 turnin either direction, make sure you feel it lock into place. Inspect from the inside of the air cleaner to ensure that the barbs are locked into place. See Picture 1. 2-Using the stock Polaris Victory air box gasket (PN 5811908) and S&S supplied (Qty 4) M6 fasteners, assemble the lower air cleaner cover to the throttle body using 243 Blue Loctite®on the treads. Torque the M6 fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. 3-Position the S&S pre-formed air filter onto the lower air cleaner cover ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 4-Install the top air cleaner cover on top of the filter ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 5-Make surethat the filter is situated in the machined grooves on both the top and bottom air cleaner covers. 6-Using 243 Blue Loctite on the threads of the S&S supplied (Qty 3) M6 fasteners tighten down top air cleaner cover evenly until seated. Finish torque the fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. Now you’re ready for breather hose and barometric pressure hose routing. 7-Locate the S&S supplied 3⁄ 16 “reinforced hose and clamps. Push one end of the hose on the 3⁄ 16 “brass barb in the bottom air cleaner cover and slide clamp up around the end of the hose. The other end of the hose is for the Barometric Pressure Sensor (MAP). Route the hose towardthe back of the engine over the top of the rear rocker cover. 8-Remove the MAP sensor from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Remove the orange rubber gasket from the MAP sensor. Slide the S&S supplied clamp over the 3⁄ 16 “rubber hose that leads to the air cleaner. Push the barbed end of the MAP sensor into the 3⁄ 16 ” rubber hose and slide clamp up to the end of the hose around the barb. A small amount of lubricant may be applied to the barb on the MAP sensor to make installation easier. 2 S&S Air Cleaner Assembly 41-0021 (Calibration cardnot shown) Picture 1 CAUTION WARNING WARNING Plastic barb locked in recess.
9-Assemble and install breather hose as follows: A-Cut the stock Victory®hose on the straight section just behind the 90 degree bend as shown in Picture 2 . B-Slide an S&S supplied 1⁄ 2 “hose clamp over the modified stock breather hose. C-Install the S&S straight barb in Victory breather hose and position a hose clamp around hose end. D-Slide the 90-degree end of breather hose over the brass barb on the air cleaner cover and slide hose clamp in place. E-Position straight end of the S&S breather hose over the 1⁄ 2 “barb to connect to the Victory hose. Slide clamp over connection. F- See Pictures 3 and 4 for breather hose and barometric pressuresensor hose installation positions. NOTE: S&S breather hose can be cut for best fit

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MOUNTAIN BIKE AIR SHOCK SET-UP AND TUNING GUIDE

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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DETAILED SET-UP 2. Installing Air Pressure – Remove the air cap from the Schrader valve on the end of the shock body. Attach the pump to the Schrader valve. Some people damage their pumps by screwing them on too far. As soon as the gauge registers pressure, screw 1/2 turn more and pump to the desired level. Use the release button on the pump to reduce air pressure. The hiss you hear when unscrewing the pump is only the air from the pump and not from the shock! Likewise, when you install the pump again, you will also hear a hiss as air from the shock fills the pump and reduces the registered pressure you previously installed. All perfectly normal when pressurizing the shock! After removing the pump, be sure to reinstall the Schrader valve cap. If the shock does not dampen properly after pressurizing, the air pressure may have been lost during pump removal as a result of a worn pump fitting o-ring that needs replacement. Do not ride the bike until the shock is properly pressurized. 3. Main Air Spring Pressure Adjustments – Air Spring adjustments are made by inflating or deflating the main air spring chamber. Since your IFP air pressure adjustment (outlined above) also affects your starting spring force, you should always adjust your IFP pressure before adjusting the main air spring pressure. You can refer to the online Quick Start guide at: www.progressivesuspension.com/literature.html for accurate main air spring pressure and sag settings matched to your bike model and body

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Air Shock Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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Air HoseInstallation. Choose the most convenient loca- tiononyour motorcycle for the air fill valve. Drilla 5/16″hole and install the air fill valve as shown in Figure 3orsecure air fill valve to frame tube. 2. Keep hose ends clean during installation because dirt can cause air leaks. 3. Install hose connector, tube clamp and two O-rings onto one end of the air hose (See Figures4&5) Apply rubber lubricant (soap solution, not oil) to the O-rings to ease installation on the air hose& into the shock absorber inlet. Plastic connector should just bottom on fitting. Do not overtighten! The function of the nut is to hold everything together in place, the O- rings do the sealing. Fin- gertightenonly (10 in/lb maximum). 4. After routing the air hose, trim the length to fit air fill valve. Install hose connector, tube clamp, and twoO-rings onto end of hose (See figures 4&5). Lubricate as above and assemble to air fill valve. Use the same procedure formating hose. Important —leaveasmall amount of slack in hose near shock absorber to allow for the slight move- mentofthe shock. Caution! Do not install hose near ex- haustsystem, battery or any other sharp edges or seat movement. Keep hoses clear of moving parts such as wheels or suspension components. Do not allow hoses to have excess slack and sag below the motorcycle. The hoses could catch on road surfaces or debris and could be damaged while the motorcycle is in motion. 5. If necessary the air hose can be secured along the motorcycle’swiringharness with tie-wraps. 6. Testing: Inflate system to 50 psi. Apply soapy water solution to all connections and check for air leaks. If there are any leaks, disconnect the suspected fitting and check for dirt or damage to the air line or the O-rings. Remove any dirt or foreign matter, re-lubricate the O-rings and reinstall. If unable to locate the leak, remove rubber boot from shocks and submerge pressurized components under water (in- cludingT-Valve) and check for leaks. If you cannot solve the air leak problem, please contact our technical staff for assistance

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2009 Kawasaki ULTRA 250X/ 260X FUEL INJECTION CONTROLLERS And REGULATORS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The R&D high performance Air Filter Kit will improve acceleration and top speed performance by increasing air flow and reducing air temperatures that enter directly into the Ultra 250X’s air plenum box area. The O.E.M. air plenum box on the Ultra 250X is a great design that will flow plenty of air. However, the air that feeds the plenum box is heated by the engine. R&D has created an easy to install “flat filter” that installs directly in place of the large center access inspection cover located directly under the main glove box. The R&D Flat Air Filter insert will allow unrestricted fresh and cool air to enter the air plenum box area which will add power you can feel and a nice high performance tone. The R&D Performance Filter Kit also features two filters, one for each of the surge and blowoff protections valves. The O.E.M. surge valve recycles compressed hot air back into the air box plenum at idle and under deceleration conditions. The R&D surge and blowoff valve filter kit removes the air recycling hoses which will keep the hot air from entering the air plenum box reducing the engines intake air temperatures. The R&D Ultra 250X Air Filter Kit offers great performance tips on how to remove the restrictive air vent hoses which will further reduce the under seat ambient air temperatures. The R&D Filter system does not remove or alter the O.E.M. plenum box in any way, therefore there are no questions to be answered regarding water ingestion

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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE VENTILATOR PERFORMANCE AIR CLEANER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Remove the main fuse. Refer to the service manual. 2. Remove the existing air cleaner backplate. Refer to the service manual. Save the original equipment (OE) button head screw that secures the air cleaner cover. Discard the remaining parts. 3. Remove the fuel tank. Refer to the service manual. 4. See Figure 1. Remove and discard the induction module support bracket. is05912 Figure 1. Remove Induction Module Support Bracket INSTALLATION Air Cleaner Installation Use only supplied air cleaner cover. Use of another air cleaner cover could cause element failure and detachment of the air cleaner cover, which could distract the rider and result in death or serious injury. (00596b) NOTE When servicing the air cleaner, apply Loctite 243 – Blue to the threads of all fasteners. 1. See Figure 3. Install two O-rings (1) from the kit in the grooves around the breather bolt holes on the induction module side of the backplate assembly (2). Install the remaining two O-rings in the grooves in the underside of the heads of the breather bolts (5). 2. Remove the liner from the adhesive backing of the gasket (3). Carefully position the adhesive side of the gasket to the backplate, aligning to the equally spaced screw holes, and press the gasket firmly into place. 3. Insert new breather bolts (5) through the backplate. 4. Apply Loctite 243 – Blue to the breather bolt threads and the mating tapped holes in the cylinder head. 5. Thread the bolts into the cylinder head, but do not tighten. 6. Thread the air cleaner mounting studs (4) all the way through the backplate (2) until the screw threads are captured in the induction module. Do not tighten completely at this time. 7. Alternately tighten the two breather bolts to 120-144 in- lbs (13.6-16.3 Nm) . 8. Tighten the three air cleaner studs to 55-60 in-lbs (6.2- 6.8 Nm) . 9. Install the fuel tank. Air Cleaner Element and Cover Installation

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KTM 250/ 300/ 380 SX,MXC,EXC ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Repair manual KTM 250 / 300 / 380 Art No 3206004 -E 2-2C main jet jet needle jet needle air control screw idle adjusting screw idle jet throttle valve Idling range A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the position of the air control screw 1 and the idle adjusting screw 2 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. To this end, slightly increase the idling speed of the engine by means of the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Create a round and stable engine speed using the air control screw (basic position of the air control screw = open by 1.5 turns). Then adjust to the normal idling speed by means of the idle adjusting screw. Opening up B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer. Full throttle range D Operation with the throttle fully open (flat out). This range is influenced by the main jet and the jet needle. If the porcelain of the new spark plug is found to have a very bright or white coating or if the engine rings, after a short distance of riding flat out, a larger main jet is required. If the porcelain is dark brown or black with soot the main jet must be replaced by a smaller one. mixture too rich: too much fuel in proportion to air mixture too lean: not enough fuel in proportion to air 1 2 OPERATING RANGES OF THE CARBURETOR 2-3C Carburetor adjustment Basic information on the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95 MOZ). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 – 1:60. Basic information on a change of the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB:

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HOVELHEAD & IRONHEADXL 42mm Mikuni Carburetor And Manifold Kit INSTALLATION Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 31-10-2010

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THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENT A) Rotate the throttle grip to the full open position, look into the throttle bore and see if the throttle valve (slide) opens completely. If the throttle valve does not open completely unscrew the adjuster on the opening cable until it does. This adjustment should be made carefully to assure maximum carburetor performance. After adjustment tighten the adjuster jam nut. B) After adjusting the open cable, adjust throttle freeplay with the closing (idle) cable to approximately 1/8″ an indicated in the following illustration. note It is very important to adjust the cables in the preceding described manner to ensure that the idle cable operates correctly for safety. It must close the throttle completely 2 PLEASE NOTE USE CAUTION PLEASE NOTE SAFETY WARNING pull open cable pull close cable SHOVELHEAD/IRONHEAD XL Installation Instructions Check and make sure that the throttle cables are routed properly by rechecking the throttle play as the handlebars are turned from side-to-side; the amount play should remain consistent. C) After the throttle cables have been adjusted, make sure that all the lock nuts are securely tightened. 5. AIR CLEANER A) The air filter bracket is attached to the crankcase with 1 long bolt, and a bracket-spacer. Removed the crankcase nut located between the tappet blocks & replace it with the enclosed bracket spacer; tighten the spacer securely. B) Remove the stud protectors from the K&N filter and place the two backing plates on the studs. Now slip the the filter onto the carburetor. C) Attach the 2 long brackets to the air filter studs with the enclosed nuts & flat washers, and to the bracket spacer with the enclosed bolt using the lock washers, and flat washers. When the carburetor and air cleaner are properly aligned, securely tighten all of the mounting hardware including the intake manifold clamps. In some cases it may be necessary to bend the brackets slightly to arrive at the correct fit. D) Use the enclosed hose clamps to secure the fuel hose to the petcock, and the HSR carburetor. The screw clamp goes on the petcock end and the spring clamp attaches to the carburetor end. E) Attach the chrome air filter cover with the enclosed socket head screw. 7. CHOKE CABLE INSTALLATION A) Attach the Mikuni choke cable bracket to the original choke cable bracket on the air cleaner stud with the enclose hardware as illustrated

MIKUNI VM CARBURETOR SUPER TUNING

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This manual is intended as a guide for users of Mikuni carburetors who want to learn the adjusting method to the best performance from our products. In motorcycles, special tuning of the engine is now considereda routine practice. The arrows that appear in the drawings in this text show the direction in which air, fuel and an air-fuel mixture flows, respectively. ¢JAir Fuel “Mixture Mounting angle fore and aft inclination of the carb should not exceed approx Function of a carburetor The function of a carburetor is to produce combustible air-fuel mixture, by breaking fuel into tiny particles (in the form of vapor) and by mixing the fuel with air in a proper ratio, and to deliver the mixture to the engine. A proper ratio (mixture ratio or air-fuel ratio) means an ideal air-fuel mixture that can burn without leaving an excess of fuel or air, Whether the proper mixture ratio is maintained or not holds the key to the efficient engine operation, 2. Air-fuel mixture required by the engine (Fig. 1) The ratio of a mixture of fuel and air is called the mixture ratio or the air-fuel ratio and is generally expressed by the weight proportion. Theoretically, the amount of air required for complete combustion of 1 gram of fuel under normal conditions is

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