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BMW Motorcycles All R1100 Models- Cylinder Head Gasket

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Situation: All R1100 models produced from calendar week 18 (April 28, 1997) onwards will be equipped with head gaskets of Multi-Layered Steel (MLS) technology. Service Information: The MLS cylinder head gasket can be used in place of all earlier gaskets, on all R1100 models, without any modifications. Part Number: MSL cylinder head gasket for all R1100 models. P/N: 11 12 1 341 173 Note: The MLS cylinder-head gasket is applicable to R1100 models only. If it becomes necessary to replace cylinder-head gaskets on R850 R models, the conventional gasket, P/N 11 12 1 342 082, must be used. Warranty Processing: If your retail center has any quantity of the conventional head gasket for the R 1100 models, P/N: 11 12 1 342 127, in stock, please file a warranty claim using the information below. If your retail center has the engine gasket set, P/N: 11 00 1 341 901 in stock , please make sure that the new style MLS gaskets are used in place of the conventional head gasket supplied in this set. All current BMW NA inventory of P/N 11 00 1 341 901 will have the MLS head gasket included. Defect Code: 00 11 01 00 00 Frame Number: 4990150 Warranty Type: 2 Warranty Stage: 1 Very truly yours,

HARLEY DAVIDSON DERBY COVER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-02-2011

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These kits are designed for installation on all 1999 and later 1340 Evolution and Twin Cam equipped models.INSTALLATION For models equipped with left side exhaust pipe: Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) NOTE Remove clutch inspection (derby) cover with motorcycle upright, not on side stand. If cover is removed with motorcycle on side stand, primary fluid will leak out of primary chaincase. 1. On models so equipped, remove the left-side passenger footboard. Using a T27 TORX® drive head, remove the derby cover from the primary chaincase. Discard the derby cover and fasteners. NOTE The gasket between the clutch inspection cover and the chaincase cover must be removed and all oil must be wiped from the gasket and groove in chaincase cover each time the cover is removed. 2. Remove the gasket from the groove in the chaincase cover and mounting surface. 3. Inspect gasket for tears or damage. Replace as required with gasket 25416-99C (sold separately). NOTE If installing the Derby cover on a 2006 and later Dyna, 2007 Softail, or 2007 Touring model, the original equipment gasket must be discarded and replaced with Derby Cover Gasket 25416-99C (sold separately). 4. To avoid punching holes in the clutch inspection cover gasket or enlarging the existing holes, install the new derby cover and gasket as follows: a. Align the triangular shaped hole in the gasket with the top hole in the derby cover. Be sure the rubber molding and the words “towards clutch” face the motorcycle. b. See Figure 2. Place a washer (2) from the kit onto the threads of one of the new screws (3). Insert the screw threads through the top hole in the derby cover, and carefully thread it all the way through the triangular shaped hole in the gasket. Do not push the screw through the hole. c. Hang the derby cover on the primary chaincase cover flange by starting the top cover screw. d. Start the remaining four screws and washers. 5. Install gasket (part number 25416-99C) and derby cover (1) on primary chaincase cover using screws and washers from the kit. Tighten screws to 84-108 in-lbs (10-12 Nm) in the sequence shown in Figure 1

HARLEY DAVIDSON LOCKING GLOVE BOX DOOR KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Unsnap the original equipment (O.E.) left-side glove box door, and unfasten the tether by bringing the aglet end (see Figure 1, B) out through the retaining hole. Always wear proper eye protection when drilling or grinding. Flying debris could cause serious eye injury. (00402e) 2. Using an 3/16 inch (5 mm) bit positioned in the center of each snap, drill out the four plastic snaps surrounding the glove box opening. NOTE The glove box door, hinge and frame assemblies are side- specific. The assemblies install so that the tether retaining hole (C) in the door frame is to the inboard side. 3. Obtain the new left-side glove box door, hinge and frame assembly (1), a lock (2) and a tether assembly (8) from the kit. Remove the nut (3) from the lock. 4. Insert the lock through the hole in the glove box door as shown. Assemble the tether over the lock threads with the tab (A) on the inboard side of the lock, same as the retaining hole in the door frame. Tighten securely. 5. Open the left-side door, and position the door assembly at the glove box opening, lining up the holes. 6. Insert a screw (9) through each of the holes in the door frame and glove box. Install a hex nut with washer (10) onto the threads of each screw. Tighten finger-tight. NOTE Ambient temperature should be at least 60° F (16° C) for proper adhesion of the gaskets to the glove box door frame. 7. Clean the glove box door frame with a mixture of 50 to 70% isopropyl alcohol and 30 to 50% distilled water. Allow to dry thoroughly. NOTE The glove box gaskets are side-specific. With the paper backing facing the door frame, the oblong hole at the top of the gasket is to the outboard side. 8. Obtain the left-side gasket (6) and a hinge gasket (7) from the kit. Install the gaskets to the glove box door frame. a. The gasket liner on the large gasket is split to aid alignment. Peel one half of the liner from the adhesive backing of the left-side gasket. b. Using the frame edges and screw heads as a guide, carefully position the gasket to the glove box door frame and press firmly into place. c. Peel the remaining half of the liner from the gasket backing, and carefully position the rest of the gasket to the door frame. Press firmly into place. d. Apply steady pressure for a few seconds at all areas of the gasket to verify proper adhesion. e. Peel the liner from the hinge gasket. f. Carefully position the gasket to the door frame above the hinge, and press firmly into place.

Kawasaki KZ750 Twin Carburetor Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The first Kawasaki KZ750 twin was built in 1975 and sold as a 1976 model as a KZ750B1. For the first four years of production (1976-79), the KZ750B1 through B4 shared identical Mikuni BS38 carburetor assemblies. These assemblies are probably the heaviest twin-carb assemblies ever built and have a couple unique features. The biggest oddity is that the Kawasaki version of the BS38 uses a system where both the pilot jet and main jet are screwed into the float bowl. A good bowl gasket is critical because gas is drawn from the jets into the internal passages that lead to the venturi via channels beneath the gasket inside the float chamber. The pilot jets used are standard BS series fare in that they are Mikuni BS30/96 type but the main jets are unique to Kawasaki BS38 carburetor assemblies. They look like very small air jets and are frequently stripped as they require the correct sized small screwdriver to remove

TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

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