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Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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Honda CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT TOOLS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 17-12-2011

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K&L CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT WRENCHES These tools use tough and accurate bevel gear actuation instead of cable for professional use. The aluminum handle includes index marks for accurate tuning. Sold each. Three types available: 35-9653 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9658 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench with longer tip for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9650 D-type Keihin Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Honda 90-DEGREE 1/4″ HEX DRIVER This gear driven, 1/4″ hex driver set is made of high-grade aluminum and stainless steel. Strongest tool of it’s type on the market. Designed for use on hard-to-reach pilot air screws on inline fours. Can be used with any 1/4″ or 6mm hex bits. 35-7820 90-Degree 1/4″ Hex Driver Set: Includes straight slot, phillips, d-shape pilot screw bit, 6mm hex jet bit & 1/4″ – hex – 1/4″ drive bit. FCR CARB TOOL Set includes three bits – 6mm hex for main jets, long reach straight slot for pilot jets and 3mm allen for float bowl removal. Longer bits make this set ideal for reaching into recessed cavities when adjusting Keihin FCR carburetors. Sold as a set. 35-7978 FCR Carb Tool 12″ DRILL BIT For removal of carburetor plug. (mixture screw plug) 1/8″ bit x 12 inch length. 35-1186 YM-33217-16 JET DRIVER 35-2270 Perfect for removal of jets from small recessed passages

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Kawasaki VN2000 Passenger Floorboards/ Passenger Longboards Installation And Adjustment

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Fasten floorboard assembly to mounting bracket using supplied 3/8″ x 3/4″ bolt, flat washer and lockwasher. Do not tighten at this time (Baron recommends the use of blue Loctite on this bolt). 2. Set floorboard angle by installing flathead allen adjusting screw in the pivot bracket at the desired angle hole. Baron floorboards set to a 15-degree position has been found to be most comfortable and user friendly. Tighten flathead screw. Adjust side tilt angle by moving floorboard stop screw in or out to achieve desired angle. 3. Now fully tighten the 3/8″ bolt. Floorboard is ready for installation. Installation 1. Remove the nuts that attach your stock passenger peg mounting brackets to the frame and remove stock pegs. 2. Install your new Baron floorboards in the same location using supplied M8 mounting bolts and washers. Be sure you dont over-tighten these bolts. It is best to use Loctite when mounting. Adjustment of Floorboard Angle After Installation 1. Using a 9/16″ wrench, slightly loosen the 3/8″ bracket bolt located on the backside of the mounting bracket the floorboard is attached to. 2. Remove the small allen screw located on visible side of the cam bracket. Once this screw is removed, adjust the cam to the desired hole and insert and tighten allen screw. 3. Re-tighten 3/8″ bolt. Repeat process on both sides. NOTE: All adjustments may not be available with all exhaust systems

HARLEY DAVIDSON PREMIUM SUSPENSION KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2011

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REMOVAL Front Fork Assembly 1. Refer to the XR model section of the service manual and remove the front forks. INSTALLATION Front Fork Assembly 1. Install front forks from kit to motorcycle according to service manual instructions but do not tighten the fork bracket pinch screws at this time. 2. See Figure 1. Measure the distance from the top of upper fork bracket to top of fork assembly. Both sides must be exactly the same and measure 0.388-0.468 inch (9.85- 11.89 mm) above the top fork bracket. Align the adjustment screws inline with the handlebars (see Figure 5). is06083a Figure 1. Fork Installation Height Measurement. NOTE If new pinch screws are not readily available, use a wire grinder wheel to remove all remaining lock patch from original pinch screws, wash screws in clean solvent and dry thoroughly. Apply two drops of LOCTITE® 262 to the first 1/4 in. (6.35 mm) of the end threads. 3. Install pinch screws to upper and lower fork brackets. 4. Verify fork tube installation measurement is 0.388-0.468 inch (9.85-11.89 mm). 5. Tighten pinch screws to 30-35 ft-lbs ( (40.7-47.5 Nm)) See Figure 2. The top edge of reflector should be 1-1/2 inches (38.10 mm) below the lower edge of the bottom fork clamp. 6. Remove the adhesive backing. Place reflector in position and press reflector firmly into place to activate the adhesive. Repeat for reflector on opposite fork. REMOVAL OEM Rear Shock Absorbers 1. Refer to the XR model section of the service manual and remove the rear shock absorbers. INSTALLATION Rear Shock Absorbers 1. See Figure 3. Install the rear shock absorbers according to service manual instructions. The shocks are installed with the external gas reservoir to the rear of the shock absorbers and the thick side of the grommet installed to the frame rail mounts. is06142 Figure 3. Install Thick Side Of Grommet To Frame Rail SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS Front Fork Suspension Adjustment Whenever a wheel is installed and before moving the motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00284a) Adjust both forks equally. Improper fork adjustment can lead to loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00124c) Compression and rebound adjusting valves may be damaged if too much force is used at either end of the adjustment range. (00237a) NOTES Damping is set at the factory for the average solo rider under normal riding conditions. The rider may make adjustments to compensate for individual riding styles and varying road conditions. Evaluating and changing the rebound and compression damping is a very subjective process with many variables and should be approached carefully. The front and rear preload setting will need to be adjusted for the rider’s weight and cargo. This adjustment should be made before the motorcycle is ridden any distance and after changing the overall vehicle weight (adding saddlebags, etc.). If the preload adjustment is correct, and you have the rebound and compression damping set at the factory recommended points, the motorcycle should handle and ride properly. Changes in the load carried requires changes in the preload setting(s). Carrying less weight than was used for setting up the suspension requires decreasing the amount of preload. Increasing the load carried requires adding more preload. The following tools are needed to make suspension adjust- ments. • 5 mm hex key (front fork preload adjustment tool). • Spanner wrench with extension handle (shock absorber preload adjustment). • Screw driver (front fork damping adjustment). 1. Front fork preload adjustment: a. See Figure 4 and Table 1. Using the 5 mm hex key, turn the preload adjuster counterclockwise until it stops. This is the minimum preload setting. b. Turn the preload adjuster clockwise the recommended amount specified for the rider weight

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ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS

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Filed Under (Atk) by admin on 01-11-2010

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PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On some Works shocks a threaded preload is standard. This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. CHECKING RIDE HEIGHT— 1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. HM CRX50 / BAJA & ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS Continued on next page. #HM50 – 5/27/99 #HM50 – 5/27/99 To Front Valve Mounting channel Spacer Flange Shock eye Top View of Shock Mount Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure! PRESSURIZING EMULSION SHOCKS The pressure setting for Works gas shocks is 250 p.s.i. of dry nitrogen. To pressurize a shock with some residual pressure in it, bring the gauge manifold up to 250 p.s.i. and depress the core with the T-handle. This will either equalize the pressure or refill the shock without transferring oil from the shock into the gauge assembly. The best gauges for this purpose screw on to the valve and incorporate a T-handled core depressor to isolate the shock from the gauge. This allows a leak-free separation once the desired pressure is reached. For simplified operation, an extra valve is provided for the filling apparatus, allowing pressure adjustment with the gauge in place. Works offers a suitable gauge and filling manifold. Most motorcycle shops that deal with dirt bikes can pressurize the shock

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KAWASAKI Z1000 GTR Electronic Cruise Control Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The actuator spool is installed in the CIU housing with the actuator cable. The actuator spool is rotated to fully extend the cable. 2nd step. The dual spool and carburettor cable are installed. The carburettor cable is attached to the lower groove in the dual spool. The other end of the carburettor cable is attached to the carburettors. Note the position of the roll pin. It is nearly contacting the end of the groove in the actuator spool. The free play in the carburettor cable must be adjusted so that the cable outer can be pulled out 2 ~ 3mm before the carburettors start to open. This ensures that the cruise control cannot prevent the carburettors returning to idle. If more free play is allowed the response of the cruise control is compromised. This adjustment of free play is usually performed after final assembly of the CIU is completed and the CIU is in its final location. This is because flexing the cable affects the free play. It is shown at this stage in these diagrams to improve clarity. After this adjustment is performed, the carburettor cable adjustment MUST NOT BE MOVED. All future adjustments of free play in the throttle must be performed on the throttle cable from the throttle grip. If incorrect free play in the carburettor cable is suspected due to inconsistent cruise operation or because of inconsistent idle speed, the adjusters on the throttle cable from the hand grip must be backed all the way off to give as much free play as possible. If this does not result in AT LEAST 5mm of free play in the throttle cable, the throttle cable must be removed from the hand grip or CIU before adjustment of the carburettor cable is attempted. This is crucial because the amount of free play in the throttle cable also affects the apparent free play in the carburettor cable

The New Kawasaki ZX-6R Trading in gets easier and easier

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 18-02-2011

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didn’t go to my local Kawasaki shop expecting to trade in the 2004 636 I’d been happily riding. I honestly didn’t expect there to be anything on the floor that would motivate me to bring the bike in. Some of you reading this may be able to relate to what I am saying, the day you don’t look for something is the day that you find exactly what you didn’t know you need. That was the day I decided I needed to take home the new ZX-6R. The reworking of the new ZX-6R is more than just about looking good. According to KMC the engine has been redesigned from the crankcase up for the first time in ten years. Racing technology built into the new bike is a close-ratio cassette transmission that can be removed without the needing to split the main crankcases in case you needed to make repairs or adjustments at the track. They also tell us that the fuel injection system has shorter throttle bodies with a smaller diameter bore which claim to give this new smaller sized engine more torque in the mid-range. It also comes with a GPS – Gear Position Sensor. The new ZX-6R comes stock with a slipper clutch which is one difference between the 2004 and 2007. My 2004′s rear wheel would hop if I geared down before a corner and my engine rpms were too high. The slipper clutch allows quicker downshifts. To experience the gains of a slipper clutch you don’t have to buy a 2007 Kawasaki – it was introduced to the 636 in 2005. A quick glance at the exhaust might leave the impression that the ZX-6R comes stock with stacked twin small diameter exhaust cans but if you look closely you will see it is a single oval pipe with a shotgun styled end cap. The titanium pipe has the pre-chamber and catalyser located below the engine to keep the weight on the bike low and centered and the temperature of the under seat silencer reduced. Looking at the new Kawasaki with its fairing removed, I wonder how much more it would have cost the consumer to have an exhaust system that not only works wonders but would be worth showing off? Even if some of the systems of the new 600 look better hidden by plastic the bike does have a cohesive look and every year the fit and finish of Kawasaki’s bikes seem to get better. You can look at this bike from almost any angle and nothing jumps out at you – unless you are on the right side of the bike looking at the rear brake reservoir. It seems odd to me that they would leave the rear brake reservoir exposed. Another design feature of the smooth body of the 2007 ZX-6R is the lack of tie down points for any luggage. It can be argued that this is a bike intended for Sunday morning canyon rides or track days on weekends but if you want to take the 600 out for a weekend away then there is aftermarket solution. Ventura Racks allow you go on vacation with your bike. A Ventura Rack provides you with a frame that you attach to your bike that you can secure luggage to. There is no drilling of body work and the Ventura rack I got fit onto the bike perfectly the first try. One of the things I really like about the Ventura Rack is that you can easily attach bags that you may already have or you have the option of buying the Ventura luggage system. Just give yourself time before a motorcycle trip to pack

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KAWASAKI STX-12F, STX-15F Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our race bred Supercharger System for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains all necessary engine components to produce the ultimate 80mph closed course race craft. Kit contains the same specifications that Team Kawasaki won two 2004 Pro Runabout World Titles with. System produces over 300hp using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes Vortech Supercharger & Intercooler Forged Racing Pistons, Free flow Exhaust Kit, Race programmed ECU, High volume Injectors & Fuel Pump along with all necessary hardware and detailed installation instructions. Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine (Team Kawi Spec) PERFORMANCE DATA Stock 61 MPH @ 7,600 RPM Supercharged 80+ MPH @ 8,300 RPM RIVA STX-15F OFFSHORE RACE KIT Our Offshore Racing Kit for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains the same components and specifications that Team Kawasaki developed to dominate the international racing circuit. This modification delivers over 200hp producing awesome acceleration and a top speed of over 700mph using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes high compression racing pistons, performance intake & exhaust cam shafts, Race programmed ECU along with all necessary gaskets and detailed installation instructions

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2002 GL 1800 Reverse Cable Inspection/ Adjustment PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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INSPECTION/ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1. Remove the right engine side cover (see S/M Page 2-4). 2. Check the cable clearance on the N (neutral) and R (reverse) cables. Note: It is not necessary to remove the center inner fairing or inspect the reverse shift actuator. . 6. Push the reverse shift switch to “OFF” and turn off the ignition. 7. Tighten the reverse cable lock nuts. 8. Reinstall the right engine side cover. PARTS INFORMATION No parts are required for this procedure. WARRANTY INFORMATION Normal warranty. After completion of the inspection/adjustment, submit one claim per VIN using the following information only: Template #: GL#5 Flat Rate Time = 0.3 hours The reverse cable lock nuts may not have been properly tightened on some GL1800 units. We have developed a procedure to inspect and adjust any affected units. Please follow the INSPECTION/ ADJUSTMENT procedures included in this Service Bulletin. AFFECTED UNITS 2002 GL1800 units with VIN range: 1HFSC470*2A102303 through 1HFSC470*2A102622 * indicates check digit Any unit in the above VIN range may be affected and should be inspected according to the procedures in this Service Bulletin. All units outside of the above VIN range do not require inspection.

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