Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2012
1. Open or remove seat according to the instructions in the Service Manual. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 3. Remove left and right-hand switch housing assemblies. Refer to HANDLEBAR SWITCHES in Service Manual. NOTE It is not necessary to disconnect the switch wiring to replace the switch caps. 4. Remove individual switches from switch housing. Refer to SWITCH REPAIR/REPLACEMENT in Service Manual. INSTALLATION Upper Housing Switches 1. For HORN and START switch caps, release torsion spring leg from hole in switch cap tab. Take note of how the spring is installed. The other leg of the spring can remain in the switch bracket hole. 2. See Figure 1 and Figure 5. Carefully pry stock black switch cap up off the splined actuator shaft (2) on left side of switch. -J02633 1 of 5 5 2 1 1 3 4 is 01405 1. Switch cap installed correctly 2. Switch cap removal from splined shaft 3. Switch cap removal from pivot pin 4. Switch cap installation onto pivot pin 5. Switch cap installation onto spined shaft Figure 1. Switch Cap Removal and Replacement 3. Pry the switch cap up and away from pivot pin (3) on right side of switch, and remove cap. NOTE Use the clear protective cover film to protect the chrome surface of the switch caps during installation. Remove the film after the installation is complete. 4. See Figure 5. Select proper chrome replacement switch cap from kit. 5. See Figure 1. Place cap onto switch, angling the hole on right side over pivot pin (4) on switch. 6. Carefully press switch cap down onto splined actuator shaft (5), rocking and moving the cap until shaft snaps into place in splined hole. 7. For HORN and START switch caps, insert torsion spring leg into hole in switch cap tab. 8. Toggle switch back and forth, checking for proper opera- tion. Turn Signal Switches 1. See Figure 1 and Figure 5. Carefully pry stock black switch cap up off the splined actuator shaft (2) on switch. 2. Pry the switch cap up and away from pivot pin (3) on switch, and remove cap. 3. Select proper chrome replacement switch cap from kit. Peel a clear protective installation cover from the sheet and place it over the surface of the cap. 4. See Figure 1. Place cap onto switch, angling the hole on top over pivot pin (4) on switch. 5. Carefully press switch cap onto splined actuator shaft (5), rocking and moving the cap until shaft snaps into place in splined hole. 6. Toggle switch back and forth, checking for proper opera- tion.
Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 25-01-2012
The included 3600-SWHA switch harness is intended for use with offroad models that do not come with a Hi/Low beam switch from the factory. The harness is compatable with stock AC lighting electrical systems as well as high output DC electrical systems. 1. Remove the stock numberplate or headlight. Remove the stock kill switch from handlebars and replace with the 3600-SWHA switch. 2. Remove the gas tank. Route the white and black leads from the 3600-SWHA under the tank following the wires from the stock kill switch. Disconnect the stock kill switch bullet and connect the white wire of the 3600-SWHA to the wiring harness. Disconnect the stock kill switch ring terminal and connect the ring terminal of the 3600-SWHA. Fully remove the stock kill switch. Be sure all the wires are safe from being burned or pinched and re-install the gas tank. 3. Disconnect the two female spade terminals from the stock headlight switch (if present). Connect the terminal with the yellow wire to the red power lead from the switch. Connect the white wire to the blue accessory output from the switch. Be sure the clear silicone sleeves are covering the stock plastic housings. 4. Connect the X2 headlight to the switch headlight plug. Note: The stock headlight plug will not be used for the X2 installation, but is still functional for connecting the stock headlight. The stock plug will turn on and off with the new headlight switch, and will be powered in either of the Low or High Beam positions
Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010
blue wire should be connected to the normally open pole of the shift button. The Shift Button is a momentary type switch. The common pole of the shift button should be connected to a good ground and the normally open connects to the blue wire from the Electronic Engine Kill box. Electric Air Valve – The Electric Air Valve has two wires. These wires are interchangeable. One needs an ignition switched 12 volt power source. The other needs a ground signal when the shift button is depressed. The easiest way to do this is to locate the red and blue wires in the Electronic Engine Kill wire harness. Splice one Electric Air Valve wire into the red wire and splice the other Electric Air Valve wire into the blue. Once again soldering is the preferred method but you can use schotchlok splices. Setting Kill Time – Kill time is the amount of time the engine stays dead between gears during a shift. Generally the shorter the kill time the quicker the shift. The proper kill time will vary from bike to bike. Its generally better to start with to much kill time and work your way quicker. We generally start at around 75 ms. of kill time. The Kill Time is adjusted via a small potentiometer accessed through the grommet on the front of the unit. Using a small screwdriver Carefully turn the pot clockwise to the end of its travel. This is 100 ms of kill time. Now, carefully turn the pot screw counterclockwise to the end of its travel. This is 50 ms of kill time. Halfway in between is 75 ms. The pot only goes from 7 oclock to 5 oclock so don’t force it, they break easily! Testing The System – With no air in the system start the bike. Bring the rpm up to around 3000 rpm and push the shift button. You should hear a slight hesitation in the engine each time you depress the shift button. Once you establish that you have a engine kill when pushing the shift button remove the clevis pin from the shift cylinder and extend the shaft to the end of its travel. Air up the shifter to 120 psi. We also have onboard compressor kits available to conveniently fill the air tank on the fly or high pressure CO2 systems that can shift hundreds of times without refilling. With the engine off and the key on push the shift button
Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-12-2010
1. The kit is supplied with 4 “cluster” lights that project a round flood lighting pattern and 4 “array” lights that have a narrow fan type pattern. Determine where you would like to mount the supplied lights, switch and wiring connections. You may want to hook up one of the lights with some long jumper wires connected to the battery and hold it in various places to see what will show off your bike best. The idea is to see the light reflected off your bike and not see the light fixture. 2. Mount the lights and switch using the supplied primer and 2-sided adhesive pad. Apply the primer to the backside of the lights and switch; let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from one side of the adhesive pad and apply. Apply the primer on the motorcycle where the lights and switch will be mounted and let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from the adhesive pad and mount the lights and switch. 3. Refer to the provided wiring diagram. The wiring is color-coded and connects in parallel. All of the black wires connect together through the BLACK wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Ground Wires). All of the colored wires connect together through the RED wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Power Wires). Connections may be soldered, crimped with solderless connectors, or twisted together. 4. Measure and cut the supplied 2-conductor black-jacketed wire to the lengths that are needed to connect the lights and switch. When routing the wire from any lights that you have mounted to the front make sure you have provided enough slack at the steering head to be able to turn the front wheel full left and full right without damaging the lights or wires. Also be sure the wire is at least æ” from any exhaust pipe. 5. Join each connection and cover with the supplied heat shrink tubing. NOTE; All wire connections must be insulated. Cut a piece of the provided heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the connection completely. 6. Connect one wire from the switch to the RED wire of the lights with one of the supplied blue butt connectors. Connect the second wire from the switch to one wire from the fuse holder with the other blue butt connector. Connect the second wire from the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery terminal using one of the supplied fork connectors. 7. Connect the BLACK wire of the lights using the other fork connector to a ground connection. (The negative (-) battery terminal or motorcycle frame.) 8. Secure all loose wires by using the supplied cable ties. Check the front wheel again to be sure there is enough wire slack for turning.
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010
Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications