Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-02-2011
INSTALLATION 1. Remove the seat. 2. See Figure 1. Loosen the two socket head screws on the instrument panel console. Raise the console enough to access the two pushnuts holding the upper end of the leather insert. Remove and discard the pushnuts using pliers or a blade-type screwdriver. 3. Remove and discard the phillips head screw (3) and washer (4) securing the lower portion of the leather insert to the fuel tank. Remove the leather insert and discard it. 4. Obtain the dash panel extension (1) and the dash panel extension trim (2) from kit. Place the dash panel extension on the dash panel extension trim making sure the panel is centered and fits cleanly into the lips on both sides of the trim. 5. Gently lift up on the rear of the instrument panel console and install the dash panel extension with the rubber dash panel extension trim underneath, butting the two together. Make sure the rubber dash panel extension trim is aligned with the dash panel extension. Finger tighten the two socket head screws to hold down the instrument panel temporarily in place. NOTE The console rubber trim from a stock vehicle may need to be trimmed slightly to assure proper fit. NOTE When performing the next step, note that proper alignment is achieved when space is eliminated between the instrument panel console and/or between the dash panel extension trim piece and the fuel tank. Due to variances in fuel tank and instrument panel console fitments, the foam pads are used on “as needed” basis to achieve proper alignment. It may be necessary to experiment a few times using various combinations of pads to achieve the desired alignment. In some cases, pads may not be necessary while in others, it may be necessary to use all with one stacked above another. 6. Observe the overall fitment of the panels over the tank and determine whether the foam pads will be necessary to achieve the desired alignment. 7. If necessary, remove the dash panel extension assembly. Peel the adhesive backing and install the needed foam pads (5) to the raised areas extending from the front of the dash panel extension as shown. Re-install the panel. 8. When the proper alignment between the new kit and the fuel tank is achieved, tighten the rear mounting screw (3) with the washer (4) to the speed nut located on the tab at the rear of the fuel tank. 9. Tighten to 18-24 in-lbs (2.0-2.7 Nm). 10. Tighten the instrument panel console?s two socket head screws to 18-24 in-lbs (2.0-2.7 Nm). 11. Install the seat
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010
The BRP Dash Frame mounts in place of the factory cup holder/storage pocket. Remove the screws holding the cup holder or storage pocket from the back of the dash and remove it. Hold the Dash Frame up on your dash. The top of the frame includes a channel that your dash slips into to provide support. Press the frame firmly up and against the dash. Be sure the frame is centered and straight. Using the frame as your template drill out the two top holes using a 13/64″ drill. Each hole is located at the top corner of the frame. Alternatively, you can mark the location of the holes, then drill them out with the frame removed. Using the smaller button head bolts supplied with this kit, along with the nylock nut and rubber backed washer, mount each of the two top corners of the frame. Use caution when tightening however. The angle of the dash frame is different than the angle of your plastic dash. The two bolts are only needed to snug the frame against your dash. You should only snug the bolt up, but don’t tighten it down. Looking from the back of the dash, you’ll see that the rubber washer does not lay flat against the plastic of the dash. This is correct. Again, these bolts are only to snug the frame against your dash and should not be tightened down. Doing so could damage your dash. The supplied nuts are nylock and will not back off even though the bolt is not tightened.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-04-2012
Use locktite on all fasteners!! 2. Put bike on lift and place jack under frame. Raise bike to lift rear wheel. 3. If swing arm pivot shaft is drilled and tapped on each end, they need to be redrilled and tapped to 3/8-16 to a depth of _” deep. If you are unable to drill & tap your swing arm pivot shaft, you can purchase one from Cycle Visions (part #CV6121), See Harley Davidson® V-Rod® Service Manual Section 2, Page 2.89 for removal and installation instructions. 4. Remove seat, passenger seat, turn signal module, rear fender cover, turn signal license plate assembly, and rear foot peg assemblies. NOTE: Our bag system will not work with stock exhaust system… we recommend the 2-into-1 Supertrap, or you may use any exhaust system that is lower than the rear axle bolt. 5. Remove the two upper shock bolts. Relocate the shock spacer from the right side to the left side, and use the new spacer supplied on the right side. 6. Install front bag mount between frame and spacer (see Figure 1), reinstall shock bolts and torque to 31-50 lbs. 7. Install lower bag support frame to swing arm pivot shaft using the 3/8″ bolt through rear foot peg clevis and cover (see in Figure 2). NOTE: There is a right and left covers and bag support, install accordingly. Torque to 35 foot lbs. 8. Install rear fender front mounting tabs using 8mm 1.25 x _ and flat washers (supplied in kit) (see Figure 3). 9. Install upright saddlebag support brackets to the lower bag mount assembly and lower fender extension crossover mount. (see Figure 4). Torque to 25 lbs. NOTE: Install crossover mount with gusset facing down. 10. Remove license plate light from your rear turn signal bracket license plate assembly. Install license plate light on our license plate light bracket (see Figure 5). 11. Install the license plate bracket on the inside of the rear fender extension using the top holes of the license plate frame (see Figure 6 & 7). 12. Install fender washers on the inside of the fender extension (see Figure 8). 13. Install upper fender bracket to rear fender extension with a _-20 bolt supplied in kit (see Figure 9). 14. Install rear fender extension with chrome button fitted bolts. (see Figure 10 & 11). 15. To check alignment and fit of rear fender extension reinstall original rear fender. Once you have everything lined up and fitted, remove original rear fender, drill & tap (2) two 5/16 x 18 holes in rear fender support bracket (see Figure 12). 16. Install Harley Davidson® Part #70909-95 and 47449-97 bracket and receptacle on front and rear bag supports (see Figure 13 & 14). 17. Install Harley Davidson® Part #47449-97 bracket with receptable (see Figure 14). Make sure the bolts come from the inside out. This bracket is adjustable for location.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2012
The majority of HSR42/45 installations use the Harley cable. Installation is simple when the installation instructions are followed, step by step. Those steps are: • Remove the stock Harley choke cable assembly. • Remove the spring and plunger from the stock cable. • Remove the Mikuni “Starter Nut” from the HSR. • Remove the Mikuni spring and plunger from the HSR. • Install the Mikuni spring and plunger on the Harley choke cable. • Install the Harley choke cable with the fitted Mikuni spring and plunger into the HSR carburetor. • DO NOT use the Mikuni Starter Nut; discard it. • DO NOT use the Harley spring or plunger; discard them. Note: If you do not have installation instructions, you may download them from the www.mikuni.com website in the “manuals” section. If the Mikuni Starter Nut is fitted to the Harley cable, the choke plunger is held off its seat and the choke is open all the time. If the Harley spring and plunger are used, the plunger does not seal and the choke is open all the time. The result, in both cases, is very poor fuel mileage (30 mpg or less). Another possible cause of poor mileage, rough idle and fouled spark plugs is incorrect cable routing. The stock Harley choke cable is very stiff and may not be fully seated in the metal elbow at the carburetor end of its run. This condition is easily corrected. On occasion, one of these errors may have been made by someone else at another location. The unfortunate mechanic who inherits the task of correcting the rich condition, poor idle and poor fuel mileage may have no clue as to the mismatch of parts. For this reason, we include the photos and text to help you discover if your installation is correct.
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010
Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.