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HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE STREET PERFORMANCE TOURING END CAP MUFFLER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-04-2011

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PRODUCT INFORMATION Noise Emission Warranty Harley-Davidson warrants that these mufflers, at the time of sale, meet all applicable United States E.P.A. Federal noise and Emissions standards. This warranty extends to the first person who buys these mufflers for proposes other than resale, and to all subsequent buyers. Warranty claims should be directed to an authorized Harley-Davidson Dealer. Tampering Prohibition Federal law prohibits any modification to this exhaust system which causes the motorcycle to exceed the Federal noise standard. Use of the motorcycle with such a modified exhaust system is also prohibited. NOTE This product should be checked for repair or replacement if the motorcycle noise has increased significantly through use. Otherwise, the owner may become subject to penalties under state and local ordinances. INSTALLATION NOTE Install end caps on mufflers before installing mufflers on vehicle. Install Direct Bolt-On End Caps 1. See Figure 1. Install end cap (2) to muffler (3) with four socket head cap screws (1). Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3- 9.7 Nm) . 2. Repeat for opposite side muffler. 3 2 1 is05426 1. Socket head screw (4) 2. End cap 3. Muffler Figure 1. Install End Cap on Muffler Install Attachment Ring End Caps 1. See Figure 2. Slide the three U-nuts (2) onto the bosses of the end cap attachment ring cup on the muffler. 2. Install attachment ring (1) to muffler with four socket head cap screws (3). Locate the attachment ring with a U-nut in the 12 o’clock position. Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3-9.7 Nm) . 3. Slide end cap (5) onto muffler body being careful to align holes in end cap with U-nuts. 4. Install the three countersunk screws (4) and tighten screws securely. 5. Repeat for opposite side muffler

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FXR BADLANDER CUSTOM SEAT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-02-2011

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This kit is designed for installation on 1982 and later FXR model vehicles.installation 1 CAUTION When performing the following procedures, be cautious not to scratch painted surfaces (fender, tank, etc.) with metal tabs on seat. 1. Remove existing seat from motorcycle. Discard rear mounting hardware (screw, lockwasher and nylon washer). 2. Remove grab strap from vehicle and discard. 3. Locate seat bracket from kit. Remove two mounting screws securing rear portion of tank to motorcycle frame. Discard screw, but save washers. 4. Install seat bracket from kit onto motorcycle at tank mounting tab location, using two hex cap screws from kit and washers removed in Step 3. 5. See Figure 1. Locate grab strap (1) from kit. Bring the two ends of grab strap (1) around the top and outside of frame (2) so that end of grab strap can be joined under seat. 6. See Figure 1. Line up two holes on one end of grab strap with two hole in opposite end of grab strap. Place one metal washer (3) from kit over end of flange screw (4) from kit. Insert screw (4) through one set of holes in grab strap (1). Place one remaining metal washer (3) over end of flange screw (4). Tighten assembly together using locknut (5) from kit. 7. Locate battery mounting tab (6) on motorcycle. Loosen locknut (7) and back out hex head screw (8) from frame until remaining joined holes in grab strap (1) can be slipped into position over end of screw (8). Re-tighten screw (8) and locknut (7). 8. Carefully slip seat into position (without scratching tank or fender) under grab strap and engage mounting tab on front of seat with mounting bracket installed at tank mounting tab. 9. Secure rear of seat using truss head screw with lockwasher and guide washer (placed between seat bracket and fender) from kit. The guide washer will center the screw in the seat bracket hole and serve as a washer to protect the fender

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Harley Davidson 1990 and later HSR Choke Cable Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2012

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The majority of HSR42/45 installations use the Harley cable. Installation is simple when the installation instructions are followed, step by step. Those steps are: • Remove the stock Harley choke cable assembly. • Remove the spring and plunger from the stock cable. • Remove the Mikuni “Starter Nut” from the HSR. • Remove the Mikuni spring and plunger from the HSR. • Install the Mikuni spring and plunger on the Harley choke cable. • Install the Harley choke cable with the fitted Mikuni spring and plunger into the HSR carburetor. • DO NOT use the Mikuni Starter Nut; discard it. • DO NOT use the Harley spring or plunger; discard them. Note: If you do not have installation instructions, you may download them from the www.mikuni.com website in the “manuals” section. If the Mikuni Starter Nut is fitted to the Harley cable, the choke plunger is held off its seat and the choke is open all the time. If the Harley spring and plunger are used, the plunger does not seal and the choke is open all the time. The result, in both cases, is very poor fuel mileage (30 mpg or less). Another possible cause of poor mileage, rough idle and fouled spark plugs is incorrect cable routing. The stock Harley choke cable is very stiff and may not be fully seated in the metal elbow at the carburetor end of its run. This condition is easily corrected. On occasion, one of these errors may have been made by someone else at another location. The unfortunate mechanic who inherits the task of correcting the rich condition, poor idle and poor fuel mileage may have no clue as to the mismatch of parts. For this reason, we include the photos and text to help you discover if your installation is correct.

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HAR:EY DAVIDSON FLHR/C/S (Road King) FRONT END LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2011

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Removal (Left and Right Forks) 1. Place suitable blocking under frame to raise front wheel several inches off the floor. For best results, use a hydraulic center stand on a level surface. 2. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove front wheel, fender and brakes. 3. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove headlamp nacelle. 4. Loosen fork cap bolt from fork tube plug at top of fork tube, but do not remove. 5. See Figure 1. Standing at front of vehicle, loosen pinch bolt (with lockwasher) on right side of lower fork bracket, but do not remove. 6. Spray glass cleaner on fork tube above the rubber fork stop. After lubricating surfaces, move fork stop up fork tube until it contacts bottom of upper fork bracket. 7. Holding fork slider to prevent fork from dropping, remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Slide fork tube down and out of upper fork bracket, fork stop, lower fork bracket and slider cover. 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 of 5 ® Kit Number 54614-05 Figure 1. Loosen Pinch Bolt on Lower Fork Bracket i04808 1 Fork cap bolt 2 Fork stop 3 Pinch bolt 8. Thread fork cap bolt back into fork tube plug to prevent loss of oil while handling. 9. Move forks to bench area. Place suitable drain pan on floor beneath vise. 10. Repeat Steps 2-6 to remove left fork. Left And Right Fork-Disassembly 1. Remove nuts, lockwashers, flat washers and axle holder from studs at end of fork slider. 2. See Figure 2. Obtain FORK TUBE HOLDER (Part Number HD-41177) and proceed as follows: a. Clamp end of tool in vise in a horizontal position with plastic knobs facing toward you. b. See Figure 3. With the fork cap bolt topside, clamp fork tube between rubber pads on inboard side of tool. Tighten knobs until fork tube is securely held. 3. Remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Remove quad ring seal. Save bolt but discard quad ring seal. 4. Using wrench flat, slowly unthread fork tube plug from fork tube. Be aware that fork tube plug is under spring pressure, so have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. 5. Remove fork spring from fork tube. 6. Remove fork assembly from fork tube holder. 7. Turning fork upside down, drain fork oil into drain pan. For best results, slowly pump fork tube and slider at least 10 times. 8. Install fork spring back into fork tube. 9. Place a shop rag on the floor, and turning fork assembly upside down, press end of spring against rag. While compressing spring to prevent rotation of damper tube, remove 6mm screw from end of fork slider. Use air impact wrench for best results. 10. Remove and discard fork spring. 11. Remove and discard damper tube. 12. Remove wear ring and rebound spring. Discard rebound spring. Do not expand or stretch retaining clip to remove from fork tube or clip may become bent or distorted. 13. Using pick tool, remove retaining clip between fork slider and fork tube. 14. Remove fork tube from fork slider. NOTE To overcome any resistance, use the fork tube as a slide hammer, that is, first push fork tube into fork slider and then pull it outward with a moderate amount of force. Repeat this sequence until fork tube separates from fork slider. 15. Slide fork oil seal, slider spacer and slider bushing off end of fork tube. Discard fork oil seal and slider bushing. 16. Remove the lower stop. Right and Left Fork-Assembly Exercise caution to avoid scratching or nicking fork tube. Damaging tube can result in fork oil leaks after assembly. 1. See Service Parts Illustration. Obtain new Damper Tube (Item 7, Part Number 46532-04) from kit. Obtain new Rebound Spring (Item 8, Part Number 46273-02) from kit and install on opposite end. Install wear ring removed in step 12. 2. With the wear ring topside, slide new damper tube into fork tube, so that tube end drops through hole at bottom of fork tube. Install lower stop at end of damper tube. 3. Install fork slider in fork tube holder. Slide fork tube into fork slider. 4. If necessary, obtain new slider bushing (14) (Part Number 45940-84, not included). Coat slider bushing ID with clean fork oil. Slide slider bushing down fork tube. 5. Slide slider spacer down fork tube until it contacts slider bushing.

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Harley Davidson 6- SPEED CONVERSION KIT FOR BIG TWIN 5- SPEED TRANSMISSIONS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-03-2012

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5/16 Bolt hole boss clearance This can easily be checked with the trap door gasket. Put the gasket on the dowel pins. AII material of the boss around the hole that “sticks outside” the gasket (60 degrees forward to 60 degree backwards) must be removed (see figure A). Primary fork clearance Place the gasket on the housing and remove material as indicated for clearing the shifter fork (see figure B). WWW . ZODIAC . NL PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS FOR HARLEY-DAVIDSON ® INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR 6 SPEED CONVERSION KIT AND 6 SPEED BUILDER KIT speed transmission. Also make sure you have a 1990 or later Factory Service Manual available. Tools The conversion kit should only be used in new or low milage transmissions. If gears or bearings of a used Gear set Removal Refer to the Factory Service Manual Section for Mainshaft and Countershaft removal. When you get to the point of actually sliding the gear set out make sure you properly mark the 5th gear set as described in the Factory Service Manual (for used transmissions only). Further follow the factory removal procedure. Clearance Checks The 6 Speed conversion and builder kit will fit in most OEM or aftermarket transmission housings without may be needed. The following clearances must be checked before assembling the 6 speed transmission. 28-05-2008 We recommend the kits are installed by a qualified mechanic with knowledge of the Harley-Davidson 5 needed are the same as used for a 5 Speed transmission. 5 speed transmission are worn, new ones must be installed, or better, the builder kit should be used. any modification of the housing. However due to casting differences, in some instances some modification
WWW . ZODIAC . NL PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS FOR HARLEY-DAVIDSON ® Pillow block clearance (right side) Make sure there is clearance between the pillow block and the housing. Any clearance is O.K. (see figure C). Fork shaft support clearance Again use the gasket as the template and remove the material as indicated (see figure D). Shift drum end play The end play of the shift drum must be checked prior to final installation. Install the shift drum. Measure the end play with feeler gauges at the right pillow block (see figure E). End play should be between .004″ and .010″, some 1/2″ X 7/8″ 0.008″ thick shims are included to adjust the end play

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2007 Softail HARLEY DAVIDSON FUEL PUMP/ FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-03-2012

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1. Remove seat. 1 WARNING 1 WARNING To prevent spray of fuel, purge system of high-pressure fuel before supply line is disconnected. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. (00275a) 2. Purge the fuel supply line of high pressure gasoline. a. See Figure 4-36. Disconnect the fuel pump fuse from the main wiring harness. b. Start the engine and allow the vehicle to run. c. When the engine stalls, operate the starter for 3 seconds to remove any remaining fuel from the fuel lines. 1 WARNING 1 WARNING To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 3. Disconnect negative battery cable. 4. Remove instrument console. a. All but FXSTD, see Figure 4-37. Remove acorn nut and washer on instrument console to separate console from fuel tank. b. For FXSTD, see 8.26 INSTRUMENT CONSOLE: FXSTD. 5. Disconnect console wiring. Figure 4-36. Fuel Pump Fuse: View From Top Figure 4-37. Acorn Nut And Washer: All But FXSTD s0660x8xx 7526
4-28 2007 Softail: Fuel System HOME 1 WARNING 1 WARNING Gasoline can drain from the crossover line when disconnected from fuel tank. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. Wipe up spilled fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a suitable manner. (00259a) 6. Drain fuel tank. a. Obtain a short section of hose (5/16 inch I.D.). Insert bolt in one end of hose and install hose clamp to ensure that end is securely plugged. b. See Figure 4-38. Cut clamp (1) from one end of crossover hose (2). Quickly replace crossover hose on fuel tank fitting with open end of short hose while directing flow of gasoline from free end of crossover hose into suitable container. 7. See Figure 4-39. Unplug fuel pump module connector (3) [86]. 8. Remove top plate screws (2) and discard. 9. See Figure 4-40. Pull top plate (2) out of fuel tank enough to expose fuel hose and clamp (1). CAUTION Carefully inspect end of hose for cuts, tears, holes or other damage. Replace hose if any damage is found. Even the smallest hole can cause a reduction in fuel pressure. 10. Cut clamp and remove hose from regulator housing fit- ting.

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KTM 4357/ 4860 MX Multi Adjuster WP Suspension manual Disassembly And Assembling

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 13-02-2011

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Disassembly forkleg 12_062 12_079Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual 4357 / 4860 MXMA 5 Frontfork 4357/4860 MXMA 02/2002 Clamp the forkleg (axle-clamp) in the vice and let the outer-tube down. Pull the spring downwards… …and place open-end spanner (size 22) on the hydraulic stop. Unscrew the screw-cap. 12_067 12_068 12_069 12_072Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual 4357 / 4860 MXMA 6 Frontfork 4357/4860 MXMA 02/2002 Remove the screw-cap from the piston- rod. 12_070 Remove the preload spacers. 12_074 Pull the spring downwards and remove the spanner. 12_075Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual 4357 / 4860 MXMA 7 Frontfork 4357/4860 MXMA 02/2002 Remove the spring. 12_076 Remove the adjustment tube with the O-ring. 12_089
Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual 4357 / 4860 MXMA 8 Frontfork 4357/4860 MXMA 02/2002 Clamp the axle-clamp in the vice so that the forkleg is at an angle of ±45 degrees. 12_095 Unscrew the compression holder out of the axle-clamp. (size 19) (when the cartridge is rotating with the holder, bend the piston- rod a little bit to the side) 12_096 Drain the oil out the forkleg. 12_094 Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual 4357 / 4860 MXMA 9 Frontfork 4357/4860 MXMA 02/2002 Remove holder compression. Caution: oil iscoming out the cartridge. Disassemble the cartridge out the forkleg. 12_097 12_098 12_099 Disassemble the dust-wiper

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Honda GL1000/1100 starter motor Removal/ Over haul Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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1. Remove the three long bolts that hold the sections together and separate them. Be careful as there are a series of flat thrust washers on each end of the armature (located in the middle section). 2. The end cap basically performs no function other than to cover the brush plate and commutator area as well as center the armature shaft in a pressed in bushing located in the end of the cap. 3. The drive end contains the reduction gearing and if need be, can be disassembled to replace the bearing. This is extremely unlikely. The shaft should turn freely and normally only requires a cleaning and grease application. If the bearing in fact needs replacing, simply remove the “C” clips on either end, drive out the bearing and reinstall with an appropriate size replacement. Any decent auto parts / industrial supply should be able to supply the correct bearing. 4. Remove the brush plate from the end of the center section by removing the screw at the one brush connection. Before removing the brushes, note that one of them has an insulating sleeve over the braided wire. The replacement must go in the same brush holder. Remove the brushes and replace if necessary and clean the brush plate. ** Brake Cleaner is a good general cleaner for this entire job. 5. Remove the thrust washers from brush plate end of the armature. Count them and ensure they go back on the correct way. 6. The end of the center section that had the drive end on it has a circular plate covering it with a short splined shaft protruding through the plate. Drive the plate out by tapping the opposite end of the section on the shaft – just lightly with a rubber hammer or piece of wood to protect the shaft. Once the plate is out, remove the armature from the section. You will find more thrust washers at this end. Make sure they go back on correctly. 7. In the center of the center section there are four large Philips screws. These hold in the field coils found within the housing. Using an “impact driver”, loosen the four screws that go around the circumference of the center section and remove them. Remove the 10mm nut for the battery connection and the accompanying fiber insulating washers. With the screws and nut removed, the entire field coil assembly should withdraw entirely from the housing. There will be four (4) metal plates that the screws mounted into come falling out. They are easily replaced into the field coils when you slide it back into the housing. Do not be alarmed that you suddenly have four loose metal parts. 8. With everything out of the housing, thoroughly clean everything using the Brake Cleaner. Although the cleaner will dry without leaving a film, it is suggested that the components be dried with compressed air. 9. Get some extremely fine steel wool (“000″ of even “0000″ is better) and gently clean the metal surfaces or bars of the armature and the commutator. Blow with compressed air. 10. Using a volt/ohmeter, test for continuity between pairs of armature bars (the long ones). There should be continuity between the pairs around the entire circumference.

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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Harley-Davidson HEAT DEMONS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-03-2012

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1. Remove the Right Handlebar Control, upper and lower switch housing screws, and Right Grip from the Handlebar according to the service-manual instructions and set aside or leave hanging. Remember to insert a spacer between the rear brake light switch and the lever to keep the switch from being broken. 2. Remove the Left Hand switch housing from the handlebar according to the service-manual instructions. 3. Using a T27 TORX drive head remove the half of the clamp that secures the clutch hand lever to the handlebar and discard. The Heat Demon controller will replace this clamp when finishing the installation. Separate the clutch hand lever assembly from the handlebar and move away from the bar. 4. Mark the location of the Left Grip and remove it by twisting, heating or with air pressure. Almost all grips can be removed without damage. If this does not work it may be necessary to cut the grip for removal. 5. A hole needs to be drilled in the bottom of the handlebar to route the power wires and wires from the Controller. The location of the hole should be in the groove or recess on the bottom of the handlebar under the Left Switch Housing at the end of the groove toward the grip. Start by punching a hole location with a center punch to pierce the chrome. Use safety glasses that completely cover the eyes to protect from steel chips while drilling! Start with a small drill like a 3/32″ size to make the initial hole. Then use progressively larger drills or a step drill to increase the hole size to 5/16″. After the hole is drilled use a round file or deburring tool to remove the sharp edges. 6. Uncoil the plastic snake from the kit and run it from the right end of the handlebar out the left end. Twisting the snake or inserting it vertically versus flat can help to push around the corners. 7. Attach the white and yellow wires from the Right Grip Heater (Item 3) to the hole in the plastic snake and pull them through the bar so they exit the left end. (See drawing below) 8. Push the right heater into the handlebar by squeezing it together and sliding it fully inside of the bar. The end of the heater with the orange cap should be pushed in first. Cut the white and yellow wire to extend 4 inches beyond the left end of handlebar. 9. Install the Right Throttle Control and Grip according to the service manua

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