Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 19-11-2010
For best service, you should incorporate an oiler, regulator, and inline filter, as shown in the diagram on the next page. Hoses, couplers, oilers, regulators, and filters are all available at Harbor Freight Tools. NOTE: If an automatic oiler is not used, put 3-5 drops of pneumatic Tool Oil (not included) in the Motorcycle Lift’s Quick Coupler (38A) before each use. (See Figure B, next page.) To Check The Level Of Hydraulic Oil: 1. The Motorcycle Lift already contains some hydraulic oil in its Hydraulic Pump Reservoir (32P). Even so, it is recommended that you check the oil level in the Reservoir and, if necessary, top off the Reservoir with the proper amount of 15/40 hydraulic oil (not included). (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) 2. Make sure to screw the two Adjusting Screws clockwise enough to lift the two Caster Wheels (14) off the floor so as to provide stability for the Motorcycle Lift. (See Figure A.) 3. To check the level of hydraulic oil, remove the Sliding Plate (36) from the Platform (35) to expose the Hydraulic Pump Reservoir (32P). (See Assy. Diagrams, pages 13 and 15.) 4. Remove the rubber Filler Plug (33P) located on the top of the Reservoir (32P). If necessary, top off the Reservoir with hydraulic oil. (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) 5. Connect the air compressor’s hose to the to the Air Motor assembly. Then turn on the air compressor and set its regulator at 120 PSI. (See Assy. Diagram, page 14.) 5. Insert the Lift Foot Pedal (11) onto the Pump Piston Spindle (9), and slowly pump the Lift Foot Pedal until a slight amount of hydraulic oil begins to leak out of the Reservoir (32P). Discontinue pumping the Lift Foot Pedal. Then, replace the Filler Plug (33P) on the top of the Reservoir. (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) REGULATOR OILER FILTER TO QUICK COUPLER (38A) OF MOTORCYCLE LIFT FIGURE B 6. Insert the Release Foot Pedal (10) onto the Release Valve Spindle (5). Pump the Lift Foot Pedal (11) until the Platform (35) of the Motorcycle Lift reaches its maximum height. Then press down slightly on the Release Foot Pedal until the Platform is fully collapsed to the floor. Repeat this procedure several times to ensure the Motorcycle Lift is operating properly. (See Figure E, page 10.)
Filed Under (Vengeance) by admin on 20-11-2010
Vengeance Maxis • Vengeance Raven • Vengeance Banshee • Vengeance Whiplash • Hotrod Drifter • Hotrod CalChop • Hotrod Teacher • Hotrod Bone Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.) • Slow down before you enter the turn; look as far ahead as possible through the turn. • Keep your feet on the pegs, and grip the gas tank with your knees. • Lean with the motorcycle; don’t try to sit perpendicular to the road while the motorcycle is leaning over. • Keep an even throttle through the turn, or even accelerate a little bit. Checking the Bike before the Ride It’s not fun to have things go wrong on a motorcycle, but if you spend a minute before you go off on a ride, you can increase the chances that nothing will.
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010
1) Place motorcycle on a firm level surface and secure in a upright position. 2) Remove saddle bags and saddle bag hardware (Tourer model only) Also remove rear riders pegs (Tourer model requires removal of rear footpeg offset hardware as well) 3) Attach bracket A (right) / B (left) to rear footpeg attachment point using new bolts provided. Remount footpegs/saddlebag hardware over top of brackets A/B. NOTE: Do not attach leveling stand bracket at this time 4) Attach bracket C(right) / D(left) to rear fender sub frame using new bolts provided. (Tourer model only – Saddle bag hardware mounts to the outside of brackets C/D. Brackets C/D mount between chrome side rail and saddlebag hardware.) NOTE: Brackets C/D have welded spacers which attach in toward rear fender 5) Attach top of Bracket E(right) / F(left) to rear of brackets C/D. Brackets E/F mount to the inside of brackets C/D. NOTE: Use ½ inch spacer between brackets E/F and C/D on Tourer model ONLY
6) Attach rear of brackets A/B to TOP of forward hitch arms. Attach bottom to brackets E/F to rear hitch plate. 7) Carefully tighten all bolts at this time ensuring hitch is square with motorcycle. Hitch Bracket Identification Leveling stand screw jack installation 1) Attach leveling stand brackets to brackets A and B 2) Thread right side screw jack into threaded hole on leveling stand bracket attached to bracket A sand adjust leveling jack bolt out. 3) Push motorcycle over from left side until right screw jack is touching floor. 4) Thread left side screw jack into threaded hole on leveling stand bracket attached to bracket B and adjust out until motorcycle will rest upright on both screw jacks. 5) Adjust screw jacks until motorcycle is level. 6) After InstaTrike is attached to or removed from receiver hitch, be sure to remove leveling stands and leveling stand brackets. CAUTION – Use screw jacks to hold motorcycle upright and level ONLY. Do not lift motorcycle with screw jacks. CAUTION – Use care when installing screw jacks. Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position.
INSTALLATION OF THE TOW-PAC HITCH CART. 1. Place your motorcycle on a smooth flat surface, like a garage floor, and install leveling stands. Install right leveling stand first. Carefully raise motorcycle off of side stand and install left leveling stand. Caution – Use leveling stands to level motorcycle ONLY. Do not raise motorcycle with stands Caution – Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position when installing leveling stands. 2. Assemble the axles, tires and wheels, and fenders onto the tow- pac hitch cart. 3. Carefully align the tow-pac hitch cart’s hitch mount with the receiver hitch on the motorcycle. Now push the hitch mount into the receiver hitch. (this might be a little difficult until you get use to doing it. Removing the paint from the hitch mount and applying a little grease will help.) 4. Place the hitch pin through the receiver hitch and hitch mount ( alignment plate ). Install and tighten the tension bolt
Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011
1. Make sure your bike is cool and parked on a flat secure surface! 2. Find your battery (you may have to remove your seat or side covers in order to get to your battery) Disconnect the NEGATIVE ( -) cable. Negative battery cable must be disconnected from the battery in order to avoid safety hazards! Be sure as you disconnect the Negative cable that it does not touch or make contact with your Positive terminal 3. Disconnect the fuse holder from the battery – both the positive ( +) and negative ( -) sides. 4. Cut the wire to the light that is not working with the side cutters. 5. At the problem light twist the light case back and forth slowly and then pull firmly, DO NOT yank to remove from the motorcycle. 6. If the motorcycle led light does not come off easily, repeat the twisting motion back and froth until you feel the light loosen – then pull. 7. Pull the motorcycle led light away from the motorcycle slowly until the cut end of wire falls free. 8. If you will NOT be using your motorcycle until the new lights arrive, you may stop at this step. SAFETY POINT: Otherwise, where you cut the wire, you need to dead end or tape the cut wire. This will keep it from shorting out until the new motorcycle led light is installed. 9. Reconnect fuse holder to battery. 10. Reconnect the battery and then install the seat. 11. Return the motorcycle led light or lights to Renegade Lights along with Warranty Return Policy Form. 12. Renegade Lights will return your new motorcycle led lights along with instructions for installing them.
Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 11-11-2010
FLUID CAPACITIES TOURIST & -10 Models Sportsman Solo Gasoline tank 19 L / 5 Gal 19L / 5 Gal 18.5 L / 4.9 Gal Reserve 2L / 0.5 gal 2L / 0.5 gal 2L- / 0.5 Gal Engine crankcase 2 L / 2 qt. + 3.6 oz. 2.0L / 2.11 qt 2 L / 2 qt. + 3.6 oz. Gearbox 0.9L / 1 qt 0.9L / 1 qt 0.9L / 1 qt Final drive 110 ml / 3.85 oz. 150 ml / 5.25 oz. 110 ml / 3.85 oz. Telescopic Forks (-10 & solo models) N/A on Tourist N/A on Sportsman 135 ml / 4.56 oz. Shock Absorbers 105 ml / 3.55 105 ml / 3.55 oz 105 ml / 3.55 oz
RUNNING GEAR TOURIST / SPORTSMAN SOLO Frame Tubular welded Rear wheel suspension Swing arm with hydraulic spring shock absorbers Sidecar: same as -40 Solo: Lower spring rate Front fork Leading link Telescopic spring Sidecar Cushioned body (on rubber cushions) and wheel on long-lever suspension with hydraulic spring shock absorber N/A Brakes Shoe-type with mechanical drive on front, rear and sidecar wheels, front wheel has dual cams. Tires 4″ x 19″ Front & Side: 22 psi cold Rear: 36 psi cold 3.5″ x 18″ Solo: Front 25 psi cold Rear: 32 psi cold -10′s: Front & side: 25 psi cold Rear: 36 psi cold CLEARANCES mm in Valves with engine cold 0.05 0.002 Between spark plug electrodes 0.50 – 0.65 0.020 – 0.026 Between brake shoes and drum 0.3 – 0.70 0.012 – 0.028 Backlash between tooth faces of bevel gears in final drive 0.1 – 0.3 0.004 Between rotor and ignition pickup 0.3 – 0.4 .012 – .016 FREE TRAVEL / ADJUSTMENTS mm in Hand brake control lever 5 – 8 0.2 – 0.3 Clutch control lever 5 – 8 0.2 – 0.3 Foot brake drive pedal ¼ of full stroke of pedal, 25 – 30 1.0 – 1.2 Toe-in throughout motorcycle center distance (exception: Sportsman 0 ° toe-in) 10 N/A Angle of motorcycle inclination to vertical plane (camber angle of rear wheel) 1° away from sidecar N/A Headlight installation (with motorcycle laden) horizontal (high beam) TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Metric (in repair manual) US Equivalent Location on Bike 29 to 33 Nm 22 ft/lb. to 30 ft/lb. cylinder heads 22 to 25 kgf-m 175 ft/lb. to 185 ft/lb. fly wheel tightening screws 3.8 to 4.2 kgf-m 30 ft/lb. to 40 ft/lb. cylinder 2.1 to 3.0 kgf-m top 14 ft/lb. to 22 ft/lb. shock absorber 3.6 to 5.0 kgf-m bottom 28 ft/lb. to 36 ft/lb. shock absorber 3.0 to 3.4 kgf-m 22 ft/lb. to 26 ft/lb. bearing nut 3.0 to 3-4 kgf-m 22 ft/lb. to 26 ft/lb. final drive to swing arm bolts 1.6 to 1.8 kgf-m 12 ft/lb. to 14 ft/lb. oil pump bolt .8 to 1.0 kgf-m 5 ft/lb. to 8 ft/lb. engine sump 1.4 to 1.8 kgf-m 10 ft/lb. to 14 ft/lb. final drive case nuts 7 to 9 kgf-m 50 ft/lb. to 66 ft/lb. nut fastening the pinion bearing 2.2 to 2.8 kgf-m 16 ft/lb. to 20 ft/lb. reverse gear brake lever 1.8 to 2.0 kgf-m 14 ft/lb. to 16 ft/lb. generator gear nut 14.0 to 16.8 kgf-m 100 ft/lb to 120 ft/lb steering stem nut CONVERSIONS To convert from mm to in, divide by 25.4 (there are 25.4 mm per inch). To convert from liters to gallons, divide by 3.785 (there are 3.78 liters per gallon). To convert from liters to quarts, multiply by 1.056 (there are 1.056 quarts per liter). To convert from liters to pints, multiply by 2.112 (there are 2.112 pints per liter). To convert from km to miles, multiply by .62 (there is .62 mile per km). To convert from km/hr to mph, multiply by .62. To convert from Newton-meter (Nm) to inch-pound, multiply by 8.86. To convert from cm 3 (cc) to pints, divide by 473 (there are 473 cc per pint). To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit, F° = C° x 1.8 = 32°. To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius,C ° = (F° – 32° ) divided by 1.8