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KAWASAKI 1500 CARB THUNDER Air Filter Kit Installation And removal Instruction

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line. 7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover. 10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. 11) Remove two 8mm bolts on Bracket – Remove Bracket 12) Remove Screw on Top of air Box Snorkel 13) Remove both side covers 14) Remove air Backing plate right side (Crank Case Breather hose that connects to stock air box will connect to new) 15) Remove Bracket that holds Carb and holds Backing Plate 16) Take idle adjustable Knob loose – let hang loose 17) Take Choke Knob out of holding Bracket 18) Hose that went to cross over tube MAY BE PLUGGED OR VENTED your Choice (Fresh air unit) ** 98′S or any models with carb warmer should disconnect carb warmer by pinching off line on each side of connector that plugs into carb on bottom. Small bracket with one screw directly on the bottom of carb. 19) Loosen Clamp that holds Carb to intake Manifold, Carb will hang loose 20) Remove intake Manifold 5mm Allen- Remove crossover tube. 21) (- BE CAREFULL-) LINE IT UP RIGHT- Replace intake Manifold (YOU MAY TO SEAL THIS WITH A SEALER LIKE PERMATEX) ( BE SUPER CAREFUL TO KEEP INTAKE COVERED DURING EACH STEP. SCREWS CAN FALL ONTO INTAKE) 22) Drain Float Bowl 3mm allen – very bottom of carb 23) Remove Float Bowl 4 screws (#2 Phillips) let hang down 24) Remove main jet, if Emulsion tube comes out use 8mm and Flat tip to separate jet from Emulsion tube. 25) Install with new jet 26) CAREFULLY Reinstall Float Bowl Cover 27) If installing Needle Remove Top Cover of Carb, Carefully pull the slide out. ( BE CAREFUL WITH DIAPHRAM) Remove Spring + Needle Install new Needle (WE RECOMMEND THE 3RD CLIP FROM TOP WITH TWO WASHERS ON TOP. REINSTALL 28) Be sure to reseat diaphragm – BE CAREFUL Reinstall Cover. 29) Install Carb to Intake – reconnect carb warmer if applicable 30) Reattach idle adjustment 31) Reattach Choke 32) Reattach Bracket in front of Carb- 33) Take Center bolt mount Rubber Gromlet from Stock Air box Plate install in to new Air box Adapter use stock Bolt, Attach to Bracke

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HW Prowler Carburetor Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats and the plastic seat pans under the seats. 2. Remove the engine cover 3. Remove the air-box by removing the cross-bar support that runs under the air-box to the framing on each side by the seat framing and disconnect the air box from the carburetor and from the plastic intake in the rear. 4. Disconnect the engine breather hose from the bottom of the air box 5. Set the air-box to the side 6. Disconnect the plug going to the stock carburetor, this is the electronic choke. Wrap the end left on the vehicle with electrical tape. 7. Cut the fuel line just above the fitting on the passenger side of the carb 8. Remove the side cover off the drivers side of the carb where the throttle cable goes in, see fig. #1 9. Pull the throttle cable out and then remove the throttle cable end from the throttle plate See Fig. #2 10. Loosen the clamp on the rear of the carb holding the carb on 11. Pull the carb out of the intake boot 12. Set OE carb to the side. 13. Push the new Carb into the intake boot making sure the carb is perfectly vertical and then tighten the clamp back up. The new carb is slightly larger than the stock one so some additional pressure will be needed to get it in. 14. Route all the breather lines connected to the carb down under the carb. 15. Connect the throttle cable onto the new carb but putting the cable end in the bottom hole of the throttle plate on the passenger side of the carb allowing the cable to ride in the slot in the plate and then turn the throttle plate clock wise allowing the threaded end of the cable to fit into the lower round hole of the throttle cable connection plate. See Fig. #3 16. Make sure you have a nut on each side of the plate turn the nut on the outside of the plate to take up the slack in the throttle cable then tighten the nut on the inside of the plate. See Fig. #3 17. Push the fuel line onto the fuel inlet on the passenger side of the carb and install the supplied clamp to hold it on. The fuel line will be a little hard to push on. 18. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE CHOKE CABLE PARTS SUPPLIED IN THE KIT UNTIL AFTER THE CHOKE CABLE ITSELF IS INSTALLED AND READY TO SCREW INTO THE CARBUETOR. 19. To install the supplied choke cable, drill a 3/8″ hole in the dash on the left side of the steering wheel in a location convenient to your left hand. 20. Remove the plastic nut from the bottom of the choke handle on the choke cable. 21. Push the choke cable thru the hole you drilled and then slide the nut over the cable to the inside of the dash and reinstall back on the back of the choke mechanism. Some dash screws maybe needed to be removed to accomplish this

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42MM MIKUNI FLATSLIDE CARBURETOR INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at 1/2 to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle. The output of the OEM fuel pump is too high and will cause fuel overflow in the HSR carb, resulting in a possible dangerous fire hazard

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Honda CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT TOOLS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 17-12-2011

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K&L CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT WRENCHES These tools use tough and accurate bevel gear actuation instead of cable for professional use. The aluminum handle includes index marks for accurate tuning. Sold each. Three types available: 35-9653 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9658 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench with longer tip for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9650 D-type Keihin Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Honda 90-DEGREE 1/4″ HEX DRIVER This gear driven, 1/4″ hex driver set is made of high-grade aluminum and stainless steel. Strongest tool of it’s type on the market. Designed for use on hard-to-reach pilot air screws on inline fours. Can be used with any 1/4″ or 6mm hex bits. 35-7820 90-Degree 1/4″ Hex Driver Set: Includes straight slot, phillips, d-shape pilot screw bit, 6mm hex jet bit & 1/4″ – hex – 1/4″ drive bit. FCR CARB TOOL Set includes three bits – 6mm hex for main jets, long reach straight slot for pilot jets and 3mm allen for float bowl removal. Longer bits make this set ideal for reaching into recessed cavities when adjusting Keihin FCR carburetors. Sold as a set. 35-7978 FCR Carb Tool 12″ DRILL BIT For removal of carburetor plug. (mixture screw plug) 1/8″ bit x 12 inch length. 35-1186 YM-33217-16 JET DRIVER 35-2270 Perfect for removal of jets from small recessed passages

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Mikuni HSR 42/ 45 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at ½ to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON PREMIUM SUSPENSION KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2011

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REMOVAL Front Fork Assembly 1. Refer to the XR model section of the service manual and remove the front forks. INSTALLATION Front Fork Assembly 1. Install front forks from kit to motorcycle according to service manual instructions but do not tighten the fork bracket pinch screws at this time. 2. See Figure 1. Measure the distance from the top of upper fork bracket to top of fork assembly. Both sides must be exactly the same and measure 0.388-0.468 inch (9.85- 11.89 mm) above the top fork bracket. Align the adjustment screws inline with the handlebars (see Figure 5). is06083a Figure 1. Fork Installation Height Measurement. NOTE If new pinch screws are not readily available, use a wire grinder wheel to remove all remaining lock patch from original pinch screws, wash screws in clean solvent and dry thoroughly. Apply two drops of LOCTITE® 262 to the first 1/4 in. (6.35 mm) of the end threads. 3. Install pinch screws to upper and lower fork brackets. 4. Verify fork tube installation measurement is 0.388-0.468 inch (9.85-11.89 mm). 5. Tighten pinch screws to 30-35 ft-lbs ( (40.7-47.5 Nm)) See Figure 2. The top edge of reflector should be 1-1/2 inches (38.10 mm) below the lower edge of the bottom fork clamp. 6. Remove the adhesive backing. Place reflector in position and press reflector firmly into place to activate the adhesive. Repeat for reflector on opposite fork. REMOVAL OEM Rear Shock Absorbers 1. Refer to the XR model section of the service manual and remove the rear shock absorbers. INSTALLATION Rear Shock Absorbers 1. See Figure 3. Install the rear shock absorbers according to service manual instructions. The shocks are installed with the external gas reservoir to the rear of the shock absorbers and the thick side of the grommet installed to the frame rail mounts. is06142 Figure 3. Install Thick Side Of Grommet To Frame Rail SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS Front Fork Suspension Adjustment Whenever a wheel is installed and before moving the motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00284a) Adjust both forks equally. Improper fork adjustment can lead to loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00124c) Compression and rebound adjusting valves may be damaged if too much force is used at either end of the adjustment range. (00237a) NOTES Damping is set at the factory for the average solo rider under normal riding conditions. The rider may make adjustments to compensate for individual riding styles and varying road conditions. Evaluating and changing the rebound and compression damping is a very subjective process with many variables and should be approached carefully. The front and rear preload setting will need to be adjusted for the rider’s weight and cargo. This adjustment should be made before the motorcycle is ridden any distance and after changing the overall vehicle weight (adding saddlebags, etc.). If the preload adjustment is correct, and you have the rebound and compression damping set at the factory recommended points, the motorcycle should handle and ride properly. Changes in the load carried requires changes in the preload setting(s). Carrying less weight than was used for setting up the suspension requires decreasing the amount of preload. Increasing the load carried requires adding more preload. The following tools are needed to make suspension adjust- ments. • 5 mm hex key (front fork preload adjustment tool). • Spanner wrench with extension handle (shock absorber preload adjustment). • Screw driver (front fork damping adjustment). 1. Front fork preload adjustment: a. See Figure 4 and Table 1. Using the 5 mm hex key, turn the preload adjuster counterclockwise until it stops. This is the minimum preload setting. b. Turn the preload adjuster clockwise the recommended amount specified for the rider weight

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ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS

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Filed Under (Atk) by admin on 01-11-2010

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PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On some Works shocks a threaded preload is standard. This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. CHECKING RIDE HEIGHT— 1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. HM CRX50 / BAJA & ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS Continued on next page. #HM50 – 5/27/99 #HM50 – 5/27/99 To Front Valve Mounting channel Spacer Flange Shock eye Top View of Shock Mount Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure! PRESSURIZING EMULSION SHOCKS The pressure setting for Works gas shocks is 250 p.s.i. of dry nitrogen. To pressurize a shock with some residual pressure in it, bring the gauge manifold up to 250 p.s.i. and depress the core with the T-handle. This will either equalize the pressure or refill the shock without transferring oil from the shock into the gauge assembly. The best gauges for this purpose screw on to the valve and incorporate a T-handled core depressor to isolate the shock from the gauge. This allows a leak-free separation once the desired pressure is reached. For simplified operation, an extra valve is provided for the filling apparatus, allowing pressure adjustment with the gauge in place. Works offers a suitable gauge and filling manifold. Most motorcycle shops that deal with dirt bikes can pressurize the shock

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2002 GL 1800 Reverse Cable Inspection/ Adjustment PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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INSPECTION/ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1. Remove the right engine side cover (see S/M Page 2-4). 2. Check the cable clearance on the N (neutral) and R (reverse) cables. Note: It is not necessary to remove the center inner fairing or inspect the reverse shift actuator. . 6. Push the reverse shift switch to “OFF” and turn off the ignition. 7. Tighten the reverse cable lock nuts. 8. Reinstall the right engine side cover. PARTS INFORMATION No parts are required for this procedure. WARRANTY INFORMATION Normal warranty. After completion of the inspection/adjustment, submit one claim per VIN using the following information only: Template #: GL#5 Flat Rate Time = 0.3 hours The reverse cable lock nuts may not have been properly tightened on some GL1800 units. We have developed a procedure to inspect and adjust any affected units. Please follow the INSPECTION/ ADJUSTMENT procedures included in this Service Bulletin. AFFECTED UNITS 2002 GL1800 units with VIN range: 1HFSC470*2A102303 through 1HFSC470*2A102622 * indicates check digit Any unit in the above VIN range may be affected and should be inspected according to the procedures in this Service Bulletin. All units outside of the above VIN range do not require inspection.

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BMW Motorcycles PolyVbelt adjustment – all R1150 engines

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 12-11-2010

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the maintenance schedules of the R 1150 GS, R 1150 R, R 1150 RS, R 1150 RTand R 1150 RT-CHP have been revised to include the one-time retensioning of the poly-Vbelt as part of the 6,000 mile service. The modified “retensioning”procedure is described below. Note: The special tensioning nut, BMWspecial tool number12 3 551, is required for this adjustment. This special tool is included in the initial equipment package forthe R 1150 RS. In the case of motorcycles that have alreadycovered 6,000 miles, and on which the poly-Vbelt was not retensioned as part of the 6,000 service, this adjustment must be performed as part of the 12,000 mile, ornext scheduled/annual service PolyVbelt tensioning instructions: 1) Remove front engine cover. 2) Undo nut (2) and screw on tensioning nut, BMWspecial tool 12 3 551. 3) Loosen the alternatormounting bolts (3,4). 4) Using a torque wrench, togetherwith BMWspecial tool 12 3 551, preload the polyVbelt to 8 Nm and hold this adjustment. 5) Tighten the upper retaining nut (4), then remove the torque wrench from the adjusting screw. 6) Tighten all screws and nuts 7) Install front cover. Tightening torque: Poly Vbelt preload: ……………………………….8 Nm Alternatorto the alternatorsupport cover20 Nm

Harley-Davidson Evolution Engines, Hydraulic Lifter Limited Travel Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-10-2010

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Remove tappet assemblies from engine being sure that each one is kept with it’soriginal tappet block. NOTE: This procedure is the preferred method of installation. However, kit can be installed without removing lifters from engine. 2. Remove hydraulic piston retaining wire clip from one assembly at a time. Be careful not to bend wire clip during disassembly. 3. Completely disassemble tappet removing all parts. 4. Thoroughly clean all parts including tappet body. Remove any oil which might prevent hydraulic unit from fully collapsing during adjustment. 5. Insert one spacer from S&S HL 2 Tkit in tappet body. 6. Reassemble tappet in reverse order making sure original parts arereturned to their original positions. See Picture1. 7. Replace wire retaining clip in tappet body. 8. Put tappet back in original tappet block. 9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 for three remaining tappets. 10. Reassemble engine with modified tappets. 11. Adjust pushrods. NOTE – In all cases engine must be cold and lifter must be at lowest point of travel for pushrod adjustment To prevent accidents, remove ground cable from battery. A. Remove spark plugs. B. Bring piston to TDC on compression stroke in cylinder to be adjusted. Normally both tappets will be at their lowest point of travel. C. Extend pushrod adjustment, collapsing lifter until piston assembly is in contact with HL 2 Tspacer and pushrod is tight. If tappets contain oil, as when pushrods are readjusted after engine has been run, or if all oil was not removed during installation, extend pushrod adjustment until valve is open (about five additional turns of adjusting screw). Allow 5 minutes for hydraulic unit to bleed down. If pushrod can be turned with fingers after bleeding down, lifter is not completely collapsed, and this step must be repeated. NOTE – perform this operation on one cylinder at a time. Do not turn engine until pushrod adjustment is complete. Turning engine while valve is held off the seat could result in valve to valve or valve to piston contact and serious valve train damage. D. Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be rotated with the fingers with slight drag. NOTE – Shortening adjuster an additional six flats or full turn from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This provides additional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly, which can improve the ability of the hydraulic unit to maintain zerolash under normal operating conditions. E. Tighten lock nut. F. Follow the same procedure for all four push rods. G. Recheck pushrod adjustment after a few hundred miles. NOTES ● It is a good idea to recheck pushrod adjustment in a new engine as valve train may tighten up due to gasket compression and valve seat wear. ● Upon initial start up after modification, HL 2 Tequipped lifters may be somewhat noisy for 10-20 miles. If lifters are still noisy after 20 miles it is recommended that pushrods be adjusted 1⁄2 turnlooser. See step D

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