bmw r65

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BMW R65 Monolever Specifications

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 23-11-2010

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Engine Motor Type Bore x Stroke Displacement Max Power Max Torque Compression Ratio Valves Per Cylinder Valve Control Carburation System Engine Lubricating System Power Transmission Clutch Number of Gears ear Selection Gearbox Ratios Rear Wheel Ratio Bevel/Crownwheel Electrical System Ignition System Alternator Starter
Spark Plugs Four-stroke two cylinder horizontally opposed “Boxer” engine, air cooled 82 x 61.5 mm (3.22 x 2.42 in)
649.6 cc 48 hp (35 KW) at 7,250 rpm or 27 hp (20 Kw) at 5500 rpm 47.8 Nm / 35 ft lb at 3,500 rpm or 45.5 Nm / 33 ft lb at 3,500 rpm 8.7 : 1 or 8.4 : 1 2 OHV, using push rod and rocker arm 2 constant depression carburettors, Bing
64/32/359 – 64/32/360 or 64/26/317 – 64/26/318 Wet sump Dry single plate, with lever action diaphragm spring
5 Dog type gearbox (ratchet foot lever) 4.4 / 2.86 / 2.07 / 1.67 / 1.50

ODYSSEY DRYCELL MOTORCYCLE BATTERY COMPATIBILITY

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 30-10-2010

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BMW Airhead Motorcycle Spline Lube Installation Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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An Airhead spline lube is a necessary maintenance task, covered extensively in some of the other online articles listed below. It’s actually a fairly easy job, and there are several good articles (see below) that cover all the details. I’m not sure if I’m adding anything to the general knowledge with this article, but I took some photos when I performed a spline lube on my 1986 R65 and 1984 R100RS, and I hope these somewhat poor quality photos can help. By the way, the 1986 R65 motorcycle is a later model “monoshock” with a “single-sided” swingarm, so the procedure may be slightly different than other Airheads, although I have since used the same procedure on my 1984 BMW R100RS and not much is different. In fact, I’d venture to say that the spline lube on the dual-shock R100RS is actually a bit easier; either that, or my experience with spline lubes is paying off!. The job took me about 3-4 hours the first time and less than 2 hours the second time. First thing I did was to pry off the two plastic covers over the swingarm nuts (pink arrow, photo left). I wanted to make sure that the 27mm socket I owned would fit in between the nut and the frame before I started the job, otherwise it would mean a trip over to Sears to see if I could find the correct socket. Fortunately, the 1/2″ drive 27mm socket I have worked fine without any modifications on both the ’86 and ’84, although it just barely fit the ’84. Apparently, some BMW’s were not machined concentrically in this area, and the 27mm socket may have to be machined or ground to fit. Bob Fleischer goes into this in detail in his article listed above. By the way, a 1-1/16″ socket will also work, because 27mm is almost exactly 1.062. Some sockets may have too large a radius at their open edge, which may prevent enough of the socket’s “teeth” from grabbing the very thin swingarm nut. You may have to grind or machine off the end of your socket to fit. Craftsman sockets have a (bad) reputation for having too large a radius, which helps them slip easier over a nut, but can also make them slip off just as easy in tight spots such as this. Although most of my tools are Craftsman, and I’ve never really found this to be a problem.

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