2005 sportster rear master cylinder rebuild kit

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME MASTER CYLINDER AND CLUTCH BRACKET KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2011

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MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL See Figure 1. Master cylinders designed for dual disc (two caliper) operation have an 11/16 inch (17.5 mm) bore, while those that are designed for single disc (one caliper) operation have a 9/16 inch (14.3 mm) bore. The bore size is stamped (1) on the master cylinder assembly inboard of the handlebar clamp bracket. NOTE Do not use an 9/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on dual disc (two caliper) models or dual disc 11/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on single disc (one caliper) models. These master cylinder assemblies are not interchangeable. Using the wrong assembly can adversely affect braking efficiency or result in brake failure which could result in death or serious injury. D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) 1 is 01230 1. Bore stamp size location Figure 1. Verify Correct Master Cylinder Bore Size 1. Open bleeder nipple caps on front brake caliper. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valves, while placing free end in a suitable container. Open bleeder valves about 1/2-turn. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. Close bleeder valve. Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s), brake line and master cylinder bore are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00322a) 2. Remove bolt and two steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 3. See Figure 2. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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1. See Figure 2. Drain the brake fluid. a. Open bleeder nipple cap on front brake caliper. b. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valve, while placing free end in a suitable container. c. Open bleeder valve about 1/2-turn. d. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. e. Remove cover. f. Close bleeder valve. Remove brake line components carefully. Damage to seating surfaces can cause leakage. (00320a) 2. Remove bolt and 2 steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) is 01010 Figure 3. 5/32 in. (4 mm) Cardboard Insert 3. See Figure 3. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 4. Using T27 TORX® drive head, remove the 2 screws with flat washers securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the brake lever/master cylinder assembly and clamp from the handlebar. Wear safety glasses or goggles when removing or installing retaining rings. Retaining rings can slip from the pliers and could be propelled with enough force to cause serious eye injury. (00312a) 5. Remove retaining ring from pivot pin groove at bottom of master cylinder bracket. 6. Remove pivot pin and brake hand lever from master cylinder assembly. NOTE New master cylinder comes with all internal components preassembled. It is not necessary to remove the components from the bore of the old master cylinder. See Figure 9. Use denatured alcohol to clean clutch system components. Do not use mineral-based solvents (such as gasoline or paint thinner), which will deteriorate rubber parts even after assembly. Deterioration of these components can cause clutch failure, which could result in death or serious injury. (00296a) 7. With denatured alcohol, clean and inspect all parts that will be reused. Replace as necessary and wipe dry with a clean lint free cloth

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Yamaha Road Star Forward Control Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Before starting to assemble this forward kit on your motorcycle check the packing list to make sure that the kit you received is the correct one for your model motorcycle and that the foot pegs are the style you ordered (billet or ISO). Next check the contents hardware kit P.N.0109-1000 against the packing list for completeness. Installing The Shift Control Photo 1 Remove wires from horn. Remove the two hex head bolts (Save for later installation) that mount the OEM shift controls to your motorcycle. Unthread stock shift rod at trans shift arm, leaving OEM rod end connected to stock shift arm. Using Original Metric hardware, place a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the bolt threads and mount the shift control plate to the motorcycle frame, Photo 2. FORWARD CONTROL KIT PM SHIFT CONTROL ASSEMBLY Note Before torquing the shift control mounting bolts down, tighten them snug and look behind the shift control mounting plate to where it contacts the mounting lug on the frame. Make sure it fits squarely to the lug before proceeding further. Torque the two shift control mounting bolts down to 25 ft-lb. Using a 3/8″ x 1″ hex head bolt with a lock and flat washer put a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) on the threads and insert the bolt through the rear of the control mounting plate and attach the foot-peg pivot to it. Tighten the bolt while holding the footpeg pivot so that its hinge is lined up in a 45˚ rear facing angle. Thread supplied shift rod coupler to stock shift rod end at trans arm. Mount the shift pedal to the other end of the shift ro d using a 5/16″ x 1″ socket head screw and Nylocnut . Adjust the transmission shift linkage so that the shift arm on the forward controls and the shift arm on the transmission are parallel. Secure it with the jam nuts. Apply a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the threads under the jam nut before tightening see Photo 3 After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use. A Shim Washer PHOTO 4 A B C D PHOTO 5 A PHOTO 6 PHOTO 7 Note For complete brake system removal instructions and precau – tions refer to the appropriate service manual for your year and model motorcycle

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Yamaha WR 250F and WR450F Dual Sport Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 20-01-2012

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license Plate Mount Installation: Locate the aluminum license plate mount and license plate light assembly. Remove the rear most nut securing the stock taillight assembly (underneath the fender) (don’t lose the little compression tube and washer). Temporarily install the license plate mount to this location and mark the fender where it needs to be drilled for the rear mounts. Drill the fender in two places with a ¼” drill and reinstall the license plate assembly using the stock taillight mount and the 6 x 20 mm countersunk screws, bezels and nylock nuts Rear Turn Signal Installation: Locate the two rear turn signals in the kit – they’re the ones with the longer wires. Drill a 3/8 hole in each side of the fender as shown in Photo 3 and attach them as shown in Photo 4. It does no matter which signal goes on which side. Run the left turn signal wires forward along with the taillight wires, up through the grommet in the fender to the area just behind the air box cross member and above the fender. Run the right turn signal wires forward along the right frame rail, and through the same hole you made for the license plate wires Brake Light Switch Installation: The WR250/450 uses a hydraulic brake switch. This requires replacing the rear master cylinder banjo bolt with a specially made switch. Installing the switch requires bleeding the rear brake. If you do not feel competent bleeding your rear brake, please refer this job to a qualified mechanic, as failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable. Remove the rear master cylinder guard. Remove the bolt holding the brake fluid reservoir to provide access to the master cylinder. Loosen the banjo bolt securing the rear brake line to the master cylinder. Typically, this bolt will be very tight and loosening it will bend the support hanger for the master cylinder if not supported. Brace the master cylinder with a wrench or lever. Remove the banjo bolt and replace with the hydraulic switch. Make sure to install the copper crush washer from the stock bolt under the switch. Torque the switch assembly to 25 lb-ft.

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1999-2008 FLHT Series Harley- Davidson Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Save the Passenger Handrail and two nuts. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove five ¼ – 20 HHCS, ¼ – 20 nyloc nuts, and Aluminum Spacers. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and remove 2 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 15. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 16. Remove both ¼ – 20 HHCS and Front Saddle Bag Brackets. 17. Remove the twelve 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS six 5/16 – 18 nuts, and the Left and Right Saddle Bag Guards. 18. Remove the Air Line Junction from the Rear Fender. 19. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip.
6 20. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Phillips head screws. Remove the Left and Right Frame Covers. 21. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove and save the Top Tour Pak Support Tube Top. 22. Remove four 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove the Left and Right Rear Saddle Bag Guard Support Bracket. 23. Remove four 5/16 – 18 HHCS. Remove and save the Tour Pak Support Tube Bottom. 24. Remove and discard the Air Valve Assembly Bracket. 25. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard both Rear Air Shock Absorbers. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. 26. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 27. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 28. Remove the 10 – 24 flanged HHCS and Rear Brake Hose Clamp from the Right Rear Fork Bracket. 29. Remove ¼ – 20 SHCS from Rear Stop Lamp Switch Bracket. 30. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 32. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 33. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 34. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 35. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly rearward. Remove one 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS from inside the Rear Fender well. 36. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly forward. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove Rear Fender. 37. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER LOW REAR SUSPENSION KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 13-02-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE Internal shock absorber components are not repairable beyond the Service Parts listed on this instruction sheet. Consult your Harley-Davidson dealer if further service is required. The installation procedures for this kit are the same as the original equipment (OE) installation procedures in the Service Manual. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for the rear suspension system removal and installation procedures. The OE hardware will be re-used in the kit installation. Installation of any accessory suspension components can affect cornering clearance. This could distract the rider, causing loss of control and death or serious injury. (00431b) SHOCK PRELOAD (SPRING) ADJUSTMENT Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for spring adjustment. Spanner wrench (94700-52L) is required for spring adjustment. SERVICE PARTS 1 is04854 Figure 1. Service Parts: Sportster Low Rear Suspension Kit Table 1. Service Parts: Sportster Low Rear Suspension Kit Part Number Description (Quantity) Item 54734-04 Rear shock (2)

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2008 Kawasaki ZG1400 Concours ABS Front 3-Line Kit and FK003D625R Single Line Rear INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our front brake line kit: You should have three (3) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, and two (2) single banjo bolts There are also a total of nine (9) washers and (3) brass conic inversors. Seven (7) washers and two (2) inversors will be used; the rest are spares. If you have purchased a rear kit as well, locate the following additional pieces: One (1) hose with bracket and c-clip attached, one (1) single banjo bolt, two (2) brass inversors and three (3) washers. You will use one (1) “olive” conic inversor and two (2) washers, the rest are spares. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: After drying out the OEM brake system, uninstall stock hoses. On the front brake line kit, we are replacing three hoses and their respective blocks (see pictures 1-2 for blocks) . For the rear, we are replacing one hose from the master cylinder to the ABS hard line. Take note of how the stock system was routed, in case you need to reinstall it. Step 4: Locate Line A – This will travel from the master cylinder to the ABS Junction. (See picture 3) You will use a single banjo bolt and two washers at the master cylinder, and an “olive” inversor to thread female end to hard pipe for incoming ABS (right side). * We have replaced the block at the upper triple clamp with a c-clip; please use your stock bolt to thread this in. (See picture 4) Locate Line B – This will travel from the ABS Junction to the right caliper. First, thread the female end to the hard pipe for outgoing ABS (left side). There will be a bolt from the OEM blocks at ABS Junction; please use this to thread c-clips into frame as shown in picture 5 . There is another bolt/OEM block located at the lower triple clamp; please use this to thread the c-clip in as seen in picture 6. Locate Line C – This will cross over the front fender using OEM holders, from right caliper to left caliper. Thread caliper banjos from Line B and C using the following sequence: double banjo hex, washer, 40- degree banjo from Line C, washer, 20-degree banjo from Line B, washer, caliper. Please see pictures 7 and 8 for reference. Thread single banjo bolt into left caliper, using two washers and 40-degree banjo. If applicable, locate rear Line D – this will travel from the rear master cylinder to the hard line for ABS. Thread the hard pipe into female end using a “olive” inversor, and attach bracket to swingarm as seen in picture 9 . Use the bolt from the holder for ABS hose, and sit our bracket on top of the OEM holder. Using the bolt from the OEM ABS hose holder in location shown in picture 10 , attach the c-clip on top of holder and tighten. Finally, thread 30-degree banjo in caliper using the following sequence: single banjo hex, washer, banjo, washer, caliper

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HARLEY DAVIDSON REAR BRAKE CALIPER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Prepare the Motorcycle for Service To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Follow the Service Manual instructions to disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. Remove Rear Brake Caliper Remove the Brake Pads 1. For models equipped with saddlebags: Remove the right-side saddlebag. Refer to the SADDLEBAGS section of the Service Manual. 2. Remove the rear master cylinder reservoir cover. 3. Pry both the inside and outside pads away from the brake disc and toward the caliper assembly to push the caliper pistons back into their bores. Use steady pressure to prevent scoring the brake disc. Pry between the pads and the brake disc. 4. When the pistons are fully retracted into their bores, pull the pad pins out to allow the pads to drop from the caliper assembly. Note the pads’ original orientation for installa- tion. 5. Install the cover on the rear master cylinder reservoir. NOTE Place a container under the brake caliper to catch brake fluid released when removing the brake line from the caliper. 6. Remove the banjo bolt fastening the rear brake line to the stock rear brake caliper. Save the banjo bolt for brake caliper installation and discard the two steel/rubber gas- kets. Remove the Stock Rear Brake Caliper 1. Apply isopropyl alcohol to the rubber bumper on the brake caliper to ease removal. 2. Lift the stock rear brake caliper toward the front of the motorcycle. The notch in the caliper must clear the weldment on the swing arm. 3. Remove the caliper from anchor weldment on rear swingarm. Inspect Pad and Pins 1. Inspect the brake pads. If friction material above the backing plate on either pad is 0.040 in. (1.02 mm) thick or less, replace the set. Follow the instructions in the Service Manual. 2. Inspect pad pins for wear and grooving. If wear is more than 0.015 in. (0.38 mm), replace both pins. 3. Inspect the brake disc and, if necessary, follow the instructions in the Service Manual to replace the brake disc. Install the Rear Brake Caliper NOTE Pay close attention to all warnings, cautions, and torque specifications in this instruction sheet and in the service manual when installing this rear brake caliper. NOTE Apply isopropyl alcohol to the rubber bumper for ease of installation. 1. See Figure 1. Position the caliper (1) between the brake disc and the rear fork. The weldment on the fork should fit between the notch and rubber bumper on the caliper. Verify that the full length of the rubber bumper contacts the underside of the weldment

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HARLEY DAVIDSON 80-SPOKE REAR WHEEL KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-03-2011

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Additional Parts Required This kit includes the custom wheel only. Proper installation of this kit requires the separate purchase of the following parts which are available at a Harley-Davidson dealer: •Wheel Bearing Remover and Installer (HD-44060) •Wheel Installation Kit (See Service Parts Tables for part number) The following Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessories are recommended for proper maintenance and cleaning: •Harley® Bright™ Chrome Cleaner (94683-99) •Harley® Glaze™ Polish and Sealant (99701-84) •Harley®Wheel and Spoke Brush (43078-99) •Harley-Davidson®Wheel and Tire Cleaner (94658-98) The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE This instruction sheet references Service Manual information. A Service Manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. Kit Contents See the Service Parts section for kit contents. INSTALLATION 1. Remove existing rear wheel assembly. Save axle, axle nut, brake disc and wheel spacers for kit installation. NOTE Remove the rear brake caliper before removing the wheel. Do not re-use sprocket mounting screws. Re-using sprocket mounting screws can result in torque loss and damage to the sprocket and/or belt assembly. (00480b) 2. Install the tube and tire on wheel. Refer to REAR WHEEL in the Service manual. Do not re-use brake disc screws. Re-using disc screws can result in torque loss and damage to rotor and/or brake assembly. (00319b) NOTES Install the primary bearing first using appropriate Service Manual and WHEEL BEARING REMOVER/INSTALLER. 3. Assemble wheel installation kit components and brake disc(s) to wheel, using the appropriate service parts table. Refer to REAR WHEEL in Service Manual. 4. Install rear wheel (1), stock axle and stock axle nut. Refer to REAR WHEEL in Service Manual

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S&S Super Stock Cylinder Head Kit Installation Instructions for 1984 And Later Evolution Big Twin and Sportster Engines

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-11-2010

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check Piston Alignment in Cylinder Bore The purpose of this procedure is to check for and correct possible piston misalignment in the cylinder bore. During normal manufacturing, engine components such as crankcases, cylinders, and connecting rods can be machined to dimensions within factory specifications but on the extreme ends of the tolerance range. Sometimes these components when combined together form an assembly that is borderline or actually “out of print”. The worst result is that the pistons can run cocked in the cylinder bores causing the connecting rods to thrust to the sides exerting unnecessary stress on the pistons, rings, rod bearings and other related parts. This procedure is not the same as “blue printing”, but it provides almost the same result. We feel that not enough emphasis is given to checking the piston alignment in the cylinder bore. NOTE – All engines should be checked upon disassembly. This applies to any engine receiving new pistons which includes those being completely overhauled. CAUTION – Pistons which do not run true in cylinder bores may cause excessive connecting rod side thrusting. This may lead to premature ring, piston, connecting rod and rod bearing wear and eventual failure of these parts. Visual Procedure A. Reinstall cylinders on old pistons without rings. Hold cylinders securely in place. B. Move piston tight toward camside of engine. C. Turn engine over in normal direction of travel 2 or 3 revolutions and observe piston during process. D. Move piston toward driveside of engine and repeat Step C. If misalignment exists, piston will appear closer to cylinder wall at one point around circumference. Condition can be corrected by bending rod in opposite direction. Figure 1 shows an exaggerated side view. E. Repeat Steps B to D for other cylinder. F. Remove pistons and cylinders. Observe pistons for wear spots on sides above top compression ring. If either side near wristpin is worn clean while side opposite is carboned up, then piston was not running straight and true in cylinder bore. Piston will also generally show diagonal wear pattern on thrust faces of skirts and possibly signs of connecting rod to wristpin boss contact inside piston.

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