Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010
1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.
Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010
This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011
Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-11-2010
Ignition timing check 1. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the rotor pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate. The timing plate is marked as follows. “ll” Firing range for No. 1 (L.H.) “T” Top Dead Center for No. 1, fL.H.1 cylinder 2. Connect the timing light to the left cylinder spark plug lead wire. 3. Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed. B. PICK-UP COIL ASSEMBLY The method of mounting the pick-up coil assembly is changed for easier service work. Thus, the followings “Pick-up coil assembly removal” and “Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation” should be changed. Pick-up coil assembly removal Remove the pick-up coil securing screws and remove the pick-up coil assembly. Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation Install the pick-up coil assembly on to the stator assembly. _ L 4. Specified engine speed: 1,200 r/min The rotor pointer should be within the limits of ” fl ” on the timing plate. If it exceeds the limits or does not steady, check the timing plate for tight- ness and/or ignition system for damage. NOTE: Ignition timing is not adjustable. C. FUEL LEVEL The carburetor is furnished with a drain screw to provide easy access to service work. Thus, the following “Fuel level measurement” should be added. Fuel level measurement NOTE: Before checking the fuel level, note the follow- ing: 1. Place the motorcycle on a level surface. 2. Adjust the motorcycle position by placing a suitable stand or a garage jack under the engine so that the carburetor is positioned vertically. 1. 2. Connect the level gauge (special tool) or a vinyl pipe of 6 mm (0.24 in) in inside diameter to the float bowl nozzle left or right side carburetor. Set the gauge as shown and loosen the drain screw 3. Start the engine and stop it after a few minutes of run. This procedure is neces- sary to obtain the correct fuel level. NOTE: Make sure the fuel petcock is “ON” or “RES” oosition. 4. Note the fuel level and bring the gauge to the other end of the carburetor line and repeat step 3 above. Note the fuel level again and compare it with the previous gauge reading. They should be equal. If not, place a suitable size of wooden piece or the. alike under the center stand and adjust. 5. Check the fuel level one by one. The level should be in the specified range.
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011
Turn engine as described above until the T-1 mark aligns with engine block marks (it looks a little ‘out’ on the photo, it’s the angle). AND (this is important) the pulley marks align with the marks on the engine cover like here on LEFT side (seen from sitting on bike … remember). and RIGHT side. Mark this position on the central pulley and engine block. Now release the tensioner bolts. (*) And remove the belt. (*) (*) When you do that the right pulley (photo-left) will ‘wander/turn’ out of position when you remove the belt, as it is ‘riding’ on cam ‘slope’ (which is under the influence of the valve springs). Don’t worry. One thing you can do to calm your nerves and keep it in position: put the new belt loosely over the pulley and holding the pulley in the CORRECT POSITION (marks aligned) ‘strip’ a spanner to the frame. Do not use the spanner to turn the pulley. Use your hands … then ‘lock’ it with the spanner. (Make absolutely sure you do not turn (release/loosen) the bolt). And, here’s a nifty trick posted by Mooseheadm5 in another thread: “..one thing that made it super easy (and 3 reduced the anxiety level quite a bit) was that I loosened the tappet adjusters all the way [...snip...] you do not have to fight the valve springs much, plus the cams do not want to snap back or forward so you do not necessarily need to use Octane’s zip-tied wrench trick.” – Thanks, Moosehead . Release left tensioner bolts . Remove belt. Put on new belt. Check the tensioners or ‘tension rollers’. You may think they are ‘fine’: they ‘roll’ and don’t make funny sounds? You won’t know until you’ve had a set of new rollers in your hands. They should be real ‘tight’ as a set of new roller bearings … which I think they are, in fact. If they appear ‘dry’ or make any sounds; renew them and get rid of that high pitched whining sound associated with ‘dry’ rollers. This is how they go on left side (remember…photo-right). And the spring gets attached . … Pulleys in correct position (crank pulley and cam pulley) . … Left belt tight at the bottom … Tension roller loosely attached (let the spring do the tension). (On photo it is not on yet … ooops.